From "Allez" to "Zone": These terms for bouldering on rock and in the gym are essential. In our bouldering glossary, we distinguish between the basics and important terms for indoor and outdoor bouldering.
Around half a million Germans go bouldering regularly – this is estimated by the DAV in view of recent polls. It is therefore high time to collect all the important terms that are bouldering are important – whether outdoors or indoors.
The Basics
- Allez – from French («go!»), is also used outside of France to cheer. The Japanese equivalent is «Gamba!» (from ganbare: «Do your best!»)
- Boulder – a short climbing route without a rope, typically up to a height of about 4,5 m.
- Beta – a solution or sequence of moves for a boulder (“What’s your beta?”).
- Beta spraying - the unsolicited Sharing Beta with others.
- Crux – the most difficult part of the boulder, which determines the rating.
- Dab – touching the ground, a person or another hold while bouldering.
- Flash – completing a boulder on the first try after just looking at it.
- City – difficulty rating of a boulder, possible in different scales. Change in degree: Upgrade / Downgrade. Boulder that is typical for the grade: Benchmark.
- onsight - How Flash, but without having watched others climbing (no videos either).
- Project – a boulder that you have been working on for a long time and that you haven’t (yet) completed.
- Sandbagging – a boulder is significantly harder than the stated grade. This happens accidentally (e.g., due to route setting), sometimes intentionally.
- Soft Drinks – a boulder that is relatively easy for the given grade. Opposite: Hard.
- Top – the goal of a boulder, in the gym usually marked with the last hold, which must be controlled with both hands.
- Topout – Stepping out instead of using a top hold. This is especially possible on rock, but also in some indoor climbing walls.
Movements & Styles
These terms can be used to describe a boulder, its style, and typical bouldering moves. This is not a complete list! We'll cover the different types of holds in a separate article.
- Bicycle – pull with one foot from below at the same time (Toehook) and the other from above (like when cycling).
- Campus – Bouldering with hands only, without feet.
- Drop knee – Turn your knees inwards to gain reach and stability.
- Dyno – dynamic movement in which you lose contact with the wall for a short time.
- Hook – special hooking with the heel (heel hook) or the tip of the foot (Toehook).
- knee bar – Clamp your knee between two surfaces to relieve the weight.
- Mantle – like when «getting on a board»: push up with downward pressure over the handle. Especially important for Topouts.
- Match – doubling a grip with both hands.
- Morpho – a boulder/beta depends heavily on body size or proportions.
- Slab/Plate – a straight to positively inclined wall. This requires friction, balance, and coordination.
- Traverse – Boulder that runs horizontally rather than upwards. Has its own Rating System.
Especially for outdoors
- Circuit – marked bouldering rounds in different colors/grades, like a parcours (especially in Fontainebleau).
- chipping – Altering rocks by hammering/chiseling to create holds. This is highly frowned upon in the rock-building scene.
- Crashpad – portable mat that you place under the boulder to cushion falls.
- FA (First Ascent) the first ascent of a boulder.
- Highball – Very high boulder (usually well over 5 m). Often checked out with a rope before climbing.
- Landing – The surface beneath the boulder. Can vary from flat to very dangerous (rocks, roots, slope). It is sometimes modified by boulderers for better safety.
- Sitstart – Starting from a sitting position, often standard outside. Opposite: Standing start.
- scoff – Partner supports the fall and guides the falling climber onto the mat.
- Top – digital or printed guide for a bouldering area.
Especially for bouldering hall & competition
- 4-minute rule – in competition: Athletes usually have 4 minutes per final boulder.
- lid – a grip that “covers” another grip, i.e. makes it smaller/worse.
- Comp Style – Competition-style bouldering: modern, often with striking volumes/holds and dynamic or unusual movements.
- Dual-Tex – Handles that have a coated side and a smooth side without friction/texture (No-Tex). Often part of comp-style bouldering.
- hangboard – Board with slats/holes, for finger strength training.
- spray Wall – Wall full of holds where you define your own boulder.
- Training board – often adjustable climbing wall especially for finger strength and technique training (kilterboard, moonboard, tension board).
- Volume – Large wooden or plastic elements screwed to the wall. These can generally be used on all bouldering areas.
- Areas – an intermediate finish hold in indoor bouldering, counts towards the competition score.
That might interest you
- Climbing scales explained: UIAA, Fontainebleau, V-Grade & Co.
- After a climbing break: How to get back into it
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Credits cover photo: DAV/Marisa Koch