Two years ago, when climbing Libre Soft (7C/+), Austrian climber Maya Klaunzer thought the 8B boulder Libre Original was impossible. It was all the more surprising for the 20-year-old when she was able to climb the line in the Valley of Water on the Felbertauern within just a few sessions this summer.
Free Original (8B) is a test piece by Klem Loskot on the Felbertauern. The boulder is very athletic and powerful – a climbing style that Maya Klaunzer And yet, when the 20-year-old held the starting handles in her hands for the first time, she thought: "I don't even need to try that, it's impossible for me to climb."
The aspiring sports scientist and Austrian national team climber took on the route this summer despite her initial scepticism. After all, she had set herself the goal of climbing her first 8B boulder this year and her Libre Original came at just the right time.
I chose this line as a project because I prefer climbing steeply and the boulder is quite athletic and powerful and this type of climbing suits me best.
First 8B: Faster than expected
In the first two sessions, Maya Klaunzer was not lucky with the weather. "It kept starting to rain." In the fourth session, she had great conditions for the first time and, to her own surprise, was able to complete the boulder.
The fact that this boulder was possible so quickly is incredibly cool
Maya Klaunzer
It was difficult not to lose your nerve while planning the boulder because the most difficult part of the boulder was the first move. "At first you can't even get off the ground, then suddenly you can hold your body weight and after a few more attempts you can pull yourself towards the next hold," says the Lienz native.
After the first move, it is tempting to say that now you only have to climb Libre Soft (7C/+). "But you can't get too excited too soon and you have to stay fully focused until the end."
Maya Klaunzer attributes the fact that she managed to complete her first 27B boulder on August 8th to the support of her friends and family. "They really cheered me on and supported me that day. I felt fit and felt that I could climb it today."
About Maya Klaunzer
Maya Klaunzer has been climbing since she was three years old. In comparison, she started climbing competitions relatively late, at 12-13 years old. She has been a member of the national team for two years and since this year she is no longer in the youth team, but in the women's team.
Her great passion is bouldering. Her most important ascents include Twisted Moonlight (7C), Libre Soft (7C/+), Erlkönig direkt (8A), Buckingham Palace (7C), Sunshowers (8a) and, since the end of August, of course Libre Original (8B).
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Credits: Cover photo Martin Šálek