Nicolai Uznik succeeds in the first ascent of Mount Doom (9A) in the Malta Valley

Nicolai Uznik climbs Mount Doom (9A) in the Malta Valley, the most difficult boulder in Austria and one of the most difficult in the world.

The Austrian top climber Nicolai Užnik has with Mount Doom in Maltatal, Austria, he made his most difficult first ascent to date. He rated the boulder (9A), which makes it one of the hardest problems in the country. Mount Doom is the sit-start version of the boulder Hide and Seek.

Nicolai Uznik climbing Mount Doom 9A Boulder
Nicolai Uznik climbing Mount Doom 9A Boulder. (Image: Sofya Yokoyama)

In 2021, Uznik launched the seated launch version of Hide and Seek and tried the boulder again and again in the following years.

Last fall, when I managed all the moves and was able to climb promising passages, the boulder felt doable.

Nicolai Uznik

The project planning got really serious in autumn 2024, when he managed to build longer sections. In January, it was already time for Uznik was able to make his first good attempts at climbing through. In mid-February he even wrote that he fell out three times at the last tricky section. So it wasn't far off.

Nicolai Uznik climbing Mount Doom 9A Boulder in Maltatal
Picture: Sofya Yokoyama

Now Uznik announces that he has made the first ascent of the boulder Mount Doom, for which he proposes a grade of 9A.

This is without a doubt the best day of my career. I am so happy!

Nicolai Uznik

Nicolai Uznik is one of the strongest Austrian boulderers and has already climbed seven boulders in the top eighth FB grade. These include lines such as Emotional Landscapes (8C+), Forgotten Gem (8C) or From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C).

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Credits: Pictures Sofya Yokoyama

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