Shortly before the Rock Master in Arco, where he intends to defend his bouldering title, Yannick Flohé flashed "Flow State" (8C) in Val Daone. After "Foundation's Edge" (8C), it is his second flash at this grade – and according to the German professional climber, the significantly harder one.
A day in Val Daone, an attempt
Flohé had never climbed in Val Daone before. He planned the detour to the Trentino granite region as a short trip right before the rock master, which takes place in Arco from October 2nd to 4th. He had specifically chosen "Flow State" as his flash project. Flohé studied moves and holds for about three hours – then he started climbing and completed it on his first attempt.
From the 8C+ project to the 8C test piece
Pietro Vidi made the first ascent of "Flow State" on April 17, 2024, proposing a grade of 8C+. At the time, he commented on Vertical Life, "Perfect boulder. Definitely felt much harder than any 8C routes I've climbed before, but certainly easier if you're taller." In August 2024, he repeated the route. Adam Ondra Flohé was the first to climb the boulder, but didn't quite agree with the grade: "8C+ if you're short, for sure!" Currently, 8C is considered the consensus grade. The line traverses a steep granite roof and demands primarily strength and endurance. According to Flohé, the first section shares the crux with "Grizzly" (8A+), after which it connects via "Flow" (8B+) through the entire roof.
My second flash of this grade and definitely the hardest so far.
Yannick Flohe
Beta via text message
Flohé had actually expected a fairly straightforward test piece with good holds. However, upon arriving at the boulder, the first part looked considerably more challenging. "I spent hours watching betas and texting with Adam, who guided me through all the variations: the advantages and disadvantages of each beta, what I needed to focus on, and which shoes would work best," Flohé commented after the ascent.
For the second part, there's only one common beta. The difficulty lies in the combination of moves: hardly any energy can be wasted on the seemingly easy ones. A friend of Flohé also worked out the lower moves. With this information and Adam Ondra's beta tips, Flohé figured he had a chance, provided he could make it to the final crux.
Three hours until the attempt
After about three hours of visualizing, clouds rolled in and it became humid. The moment was set. "I climbed smoothly through the 8A+ section and reached a good rest point. I re-chalked, shook myself for a few seconds, and then gave it my all on the final big move to the sloping jug. The crucial thing is to keep your foot on a poor friction hold to control the momentum. I just barely managed to keep it there, even though I completely missed the hold and had to readjust before I could grab the final jug," Flohé describes his flash go.
The first 8C flash was just over a year ago.
In July 2025, Flohé had “Foundation's Edge” by Dave Graham Flashed in Fionnay. The first flash ever at grade 8C. “Flow State” clearly places it above that: “My second flash at this grade and certainly my hardest so far,” Flohé says in the press release.
Next goal: the first 8C+ flash?
Flohé calls flashing "an interesting game": little to lose, much to gain – especially in new areas where every boulder is a potential flash. The next step is obvious. "There's still the first 8C+ flash to go. The options are getting a bit limited, though, because I've already climbed or attempted most of the 8C+ routes, at least in Switzerland. But there's definitely something I have in mind for the near future." He won't reveal which boulder it is. First up for Flohé this weekend is the Rock Master in Arco – with the flash of "Flow State" as a clear motivational boost.
That might interest you
- Yannick Flohé re-records »No One Mourns the Wicked« – and downgrades it to 8C+
- Yannick Flohé repeats »Excalibur« (9b+) in Arco
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