From the climate demonstration to the Rätikon classic: Dimitri Vogt climbs Silbergeier (8b+)

At the beginning of October, Swiss climber Dimitri Vogt successfully climbed one of the most famous multi-pitch routes in the Alps: Silbergeier (8b+, 6SL) in the Rätikon. For Lacrux, the Bernese man reviews his climb again - and explains what role climate change plays in it.

Testimonial from Dimitri Vogt

At the end of September to the beginning of October I spend a few wonderful days in the Rätikon with my colleague Samuel. Our goal is the difficult multi-pitch route Silbergeier. We spend two days checking out the individual pitches. Even though all the individual points have been decoded, climbing through doesn't really feel realistic to me.

The tricky slab areas feel too unsafe for me to be able to climb them all in one go.

Dimi Vogt
Dimi-Vogt-Silver Vulture-climbing-in-the-dark
It would have been worth getting up early, abseiling at night after checking out

Silbergeier: In the realm of possibility?

After a two-day break and a detour to the climate demonstration in Bern with some climbing colleagues from the national team, I started multi-pitch climbing again on Sunday. My goal is to try to tie together longer pieces of the route.

I managed to climb the first pitch successfully on my first attempt. This led me to spontaneously attempt to climb the entire route without much hope of success.

Dimi Vogt

Samuel supports me in this. Somehow it seems to be my day because I manage all of the next three pitches straight away. The fact that I have already mastered the first four pitches efficiently motivates me and I am beginning to believe that a climb is within the realm of possibility.

Improvised sun protection at the belay in front of the key pitch of Silbergeier.
Improvised sun protection at the belay in front of the key pitch of Silbergeier.

Willpower and persistence: Even with climate change

The sun beats on the south wall. I climb practically all pitches without a shirt because it's so warm. Countless temperature records have already been broken this fall. Global warming is progressing and it is urgent time to act.

After all, the day before, 60 people demonstrated on the Bundesplatz in Bern for more commitment to climate protection. Just as I hope to successfully master the next pitch, I hope even more that politicians, together with society, will soon take more concrete steps against global warming.

Dimi Vogt with colleagues from the national squad at the climate demonstration in Bern.
Dimi Vogt with colleagues from the national squad at the climate demonstration in Bern.

Luckily there is now a light wind. After a break at the warm but cozy spot, I try the difficult 8b+ pitch.

With a lot of willpower and thin skin, I manage to climb the key pitch on the second attempt. Then I fight my way up the last difficult length.

Dimi Vogt silver vulture red point inspection
When checking out, the runouts always feel the scariest.

Overjoyed and somewhat amazed at what just happened, I find myself at the top of Silbergeier. Once again I realize that the seemingly impossible can become possible with a lot of willpower and persistence. This must now also happen in the fight against global warming.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover photo and images in the text Dimi Vogt & Samuel

News

00:15:26

Can Ondra onsight all the hard routes in Soyhières in one afternoon?

Adam Ondra visited the Soyhières climbing area and attempted to onsight climb the most difficult routes in one afternoon. Will he make it?

Dylan Chuat repeats Seb Bouin Kingline Beyond (9a+)

Successful short trip: Dylan Chuat from French-speaking Switzerland repeats Beyond (9a+) in Pic St. Loup as well as other tough routes.
00:18:21

Projecting at the limit and the possibility of failure

Stefano Ghisolfi shows what it means to plan the hardest sport climbing route and the hardest boulder in the world.

Aidan Roberts climbs two potential 9A boulders

Two new 9A boulders? Aidan Roberts was the first to climb two extremely hard boulders that have the potential to be of the highest difficulty.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

00:15:26

Can Ondra onsight all the hard routes in Soyhières in one afternoon?

Adam Ondra visited the Soyhières climbing area and attempted to onsight climb the most difficult routes in one afternoon. Will he make it?

Dylan Chuat repeats Seb Bouin Kingline Beyond (9a+)

Successful short trip: Dylan Chuat from French-speaking Switzerland repeats Beyond (9a+) in Pic St. Loup as well as other tough routes.
00:18:21

Projecting at the limit and the possibility of failure

Stefano Ghisolfi shows what it means to plan the hardest sport climbing route and the hardest boulder in the world.