Two historically significant routes have been repeated in the past few days. And both from Italians. Michael Piccolruaz scored Weisse Rose at the Schleierwasserfall and Stefano Ghisolfi added to Action Directe's long list of red point climbs.
Action Directe’s list of ascents reads like a “Who’s Who” of the climbing scene: Wolfgang Güllich, Dave Graham, Iker Pou, Kilian Fischhuber, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos. and many more have already entered the red point ascent of what is probably the most famous sport climbing route in the world in their route books.
It is incredible that the visionary Wolfgang Güllich redpointed this route in 1991.
Stefano Ghisolfi
The Italian secured the most recent ascent Stefano Ghisolfi. He was traveling from Norway to Italy and didn't miss the opportunity to try a few things Action Directe to do.
“It was definitely worth making a quick stop and investing a few days in this historical masterpiece,” enthuses Ghisolfi. He has every reason to be happy because not everyone manages to crack the heavily finger-heavy and 45 degree overhanging route with their famous dynamo in such a short time.
Despite the new beta and kneepad it's still 9a
Another Italian also made short work of it and he also chose a route steeped in history: White Rose at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria. The line running through the central part of the rock dome was created in 1994 by the German professional climber Alexander Huber first climbed and is considered one of the most difficult routes of its time. In the almost 30 years since the first free ascent, the line has only been repeated three times, the youngest of which bears the name of the Italian Michael Piccolruaz.
Piccolruaz was the first climber to use a kneepad when climbing, which made the ascent a little easier and he benefited from a new beta. Nevertheless, he still classifies Weisse Rose as 9a.
The route is a 9a even with the kneepad and new beta. This shows how damn strong Alexander Huber's performance was back then!
Michael Piccolruz
Piccolruaz has the route along with Philipp Gassner projected, which is apparently close to being implemented. We are excited to see whether Gassner will make it before winter sets in.
Piccolruaz in the upper part of the Weisse Rose route
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Credits: Cover picture Sara Grippo