Swedish professional climber Matilda Söderlund completed the first female ascent of the 350-meter multi-pitch route "Spomin" (8c) in Croatia's Paklenica National Park in mid-November. This achievement seamlessly joins Söderlund's string of challenging big wall climbs.
One-day ascent of a difficult multi-pitch route
Spomin, meaning "memory" in Slovenian, is considered one of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in Europe. The route on the north face of Anica Kuk is 350 meters long and consists of ten pitches, including four crux sections graded 8a+, 8c, 8b+, and 8b+. It was first free climbed by Luka Krajnc in 2017. A year later, Adam Ondra a historic onsight ascent of the line.
What an epic day of climbing! I don't think I've ever pushed myself so hard.
Mathilda Söderlund
Söderlund She climbed the route in one day, supported by Norwegian climber Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. Fourteen hours passed between their attempt from the car and their return, and the two women climbed the last few pitches in the dark. "A cool mix of absolute peace and epicness," the 33-year-old wrote on Instagram. Standing on the summit of Anica Kuk with her climbing partner, she continued, is a memory she will cherish forever.
Furthermore, the 9a climber notes significant progress in her climbing and the project. She last attempted "Spomin" in 2023 and recounts: "The climbing, which had felt somewhat uncomfortable and intimidating last time, was now exciting and fun. I felt really comfortable on the wall and had an incredible amount of enjoyment climbing it."
"This was for you, Dad"
Söderlund also described the project as a tribute to her father, who introduced her to climbing at the age of eleven and has supported her career ever since. He is currently in the hospital, and for the professional athlete, it was clear that she would complete the challenging grade 8 pitches for him.
Second 8c big wall climb for the Swede
Spomin is Matilda Söderlund's second multi-pitch climb in the upper eighth grade of her career. In 2022, she completed it together with Sasha DiGiulian and Brette Harrington the 610-meter-long route »rayu“(8c) in Spain. Furthermore, this year she was able to, together with Anna Hazelnutt, tick off the 450 m long route »Air Madagascar« (8a+).
The Swedish professional athlete ended her competitive career in plastics at the age of 22, having, according to her own statement, achieved everything she had set out to do in the professional competition scene. "It's a closed chapter," she says. EpicTV“I really enjoyed it, but my passion is outdoors on the rock.” So we remain curious to see which big wall the Swede will set her sights on next.
- Interview: Matilda Söderlund about the ascent of Parzival
- Video: Matilda Söderlund celebrating her first 9a: The Elder Statesman
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Credits: Cover photo: William Hamilton