Janja Garnbret climbed the route "Puro Dreaming" (8c+/9a) in Arco on her first attempt. The route's grade is currently controversial—Garnbret's ascent is arguably the hardest flash climb by a female climber of all time.
The exceptional Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret is the flash of »Puro Dreaming« (8c+/9a) in bow succeeded. She actually wanted to go to Italy's climbing mecca »Excalibur" (9b+), but decided against it due to suboptimal conditions. In the Massone sector, the two-time Olympic champion climbed "Puro Dreaming" after the warm-up – and, quite unexpectedly, climbed to the anchor on her first attempt.
Quasi-Onsight by Garnbret
Outdoor photographer Björn Pohl was there that day to photograph Garnbret on the rock (and actually in "Excalibur"). As an eyewitness, he reported on Instagram of her incredibly fast ascent. Particularly impressive: The 26-year-old had previously received only minimal beta from Italian climber Michele Caminati, but then largely improvised in the flash climb. Pohl therefore called the ascent a "semi-onsight."
Janja's ascent was more of an onsight than a flash.
Photographer Björn Pohl
Level of difficulty is controversial
»Puro Dreaming« was drilled by Alfredo Webber in 2017 and in 2018 by Adam Ondra freed, whereupon the Czech suggested a grade of 9a. Unlike the first ascent, subsequent repeaters used kneepads – and the grade settled at 8c+/9a. Nevertheless, some climbers have since ticked the route as a soft 9a.
Like Ondra, Janja Garnbret also refrained from using kneepads, which makes both ascents significantly more comparable. According to various reports, a hold on the route recently broke off, which is said to make it more difficult again. Both of these factors support a 9a rating for Garnbret's ascent – especially since it had hardly any beta prior to this. The Slovenian herself described the route as "8c+?" in her Instagram post.
The topic of kneepads regularly causes debate on difficult routes when it comes to their rating. Also »Change« (9b/+) and »Bibliography« (9b+) were originally first ascended without kneepads and later downgraded by kneepad wearers. It's currently unlikely that there will be different grades for both modes in the future, but it's being discussed more and more frequently within the climbing scene.
Garnbret would be the third person to flash 9a
If "Puro Dreaming" without kneepads is considered a 9a in the long term, Janja Garnbret would be the first woman and the third person to flash a route of this grade. So far, this has only been achieved Adam Ondra (“Super Crackinette” 2018 and “Peščena ura” 2024) and Alex Megos (»Intermezzo« 2021 and »Mr. BIG« 2025).
No matter how the debate about the degree ultimately ends: With her flash of “Puro Dreaming,” Janja Garnbret has given only a small taste of what she can achieve on the rock. The strong Slovenian was the first woman to climb 8c onsight in 2021 and has since onsighted three more routes at this grade. In bouldering, she achieved the first female ascent of Iron Sit (8C) in the Malta Valley.
So we can look forward to more: The 26-year-old's schedule is free of competition stress for the next few months – and the rock climbing season has only just begun.
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Credits cover photo: Björn Pohl