Simon Gietl has made the first free ascent of the new route "KAIROS" on the west face of Lavarella di Fora. The South Tyrolean climber, together with Davide Prandini and Martin Niederkofler, established the approximately 250-meter-long line using only mobile protection and without a single bolt.
Four days for the first ascent
For four days, the three alpinists worked their way up the compact limestone wall. The solid rock offered hardly any opportunities for protection. The first ascent was finally achieved, graded IX-A2. Several falls of nearly 15 meters were part of the process. "The good thing after that super-soft fall was that nothing happened and I realized the protection held. I fell three more times at the same spot until, finally, on the fifth attempt, I found the crucial solution and overcame the section. After that, I placed a secure bolt and, after another 6 meters, completed the pitch on a small ledge," recalls the professional alpinist.
To be honest, I came pretty close to my physical and mental limit, to put it briefly: 99% motivation would not have been enough to open this line.
Simon Gietl
Top images: On the way to the start of the challenging new line. | Bottom: Simon Gietl on "KAIROS": Impressive structure in compact rock | Images:
From the outset, the team pursued a clear idea: to find the most direct line possible through this extraordinary wall, consistently protected using traditional methods. "Interestingly, there were sections that couldn't be protected, and then there were sections that could be protected relatively well because the rock structure kept revealing cracks and holes seemingly out of nowhere," Gietl tells us. "The rock is incredibly compact, but I was always lucky enough to find something new each time, something that allowed me to continue my ascent."
Red dot on August 13th
After the first ascent, Gietl Another goal: to climb all the pitches in one day without falling. He studied the sections in detail and trained specifically on the wall. On August 13th, he achieved the redpoint. He was belayed by Magdalena Mittersteiner. The crux pitches range in the X-, IX+/X-, and IX+ ranges. The sparse to very limited protection further increases the difficulty and makes "KAIROS" a technically and mentally demanding undertaking.
“99 percent motivation would have been too little”
Gietl looks back with satisfaction: “It was a special and very intense time that I was able to share with friends in this tranquil place. I am very proud and grateful to have established this first ascent in this style. To put it simply: 99 percent motivation wouldn't have been enough to establish this line.” With “KAIROS,” a challenging trad route has been created on an exceptional limestone face. The combination of difficult pitches, sparse protection, and the deliberate avoidance of bolts gives the line a distinctly alpine character.
For repeat attendees: a short and concise summary by Simon Gietl:
The difficulty in the opening was -IX A2
Free: -X
Mandatory for repeaters: IX
Overall, it is a beautiful five-star route that should be enjoyed with caution.
I wish all repeat players lots of fun with Kairos.
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