Belgian Siebe Vanhee has made the first solo ascent of Voie Petit on the Grand Capucin, one of the most challenging high-alpine climbing routes in the French Alps.
Siebe Vanhee has once again taken on a difficult tour in the Alps – and once again alone. The big-wall specialist from Belgium has already climbed several difficult multi-pitch routes solo in just one day, including Une Jolie Fleur dans un Peau de Vache (8b, 300m) in the Gorges du Verdon and El Pilar del Cantábrico (8a+, 500m) on Pico Urreillu.
Afterward, he felt "ready for a bigger adventure." It would be a difficult, high-altitude route—and another one-day, ground-up ascent.
I love the logistical and tactical challenges of lead soloing.
Siebe Vanhee
Voie Petit: a route whose reputation precedes it
Vanhee finally found what he was looking for in the Mont Blanc region of the French Alps. Voie Petit (8b, 450m) is a difficult multipitch route on the 3.838-meter-high Grand Capucin, one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the Alps: "The technical climbing demands and the altitude at which the route is located are legendary."
Petit Voie was established in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and finally in 2005 by Alexander Huber freed. Huber, then one of the best big-wall climbers in the world, called it "probably the hardest route at this altitude in Europe."
For his solo ascent, Siebe Vanhee prepared for the planned one-day trek, but took a sleeping bag and a stove with him as a precaution. A decision that would later pay off.
I quickly realized that Voie Petit was a different challenge.
Siebe Vanhee
On the day of his attempt, June 24, despite the perfect weather conditions, Vanhee quickly realized that the granite of Voie Petit was very different from his previous solo experiences on the limestone: "The pitches were very winding and ran through many roofs, a problem for abseiling and retrieving my haul bag."
To prevent his haul bag or rope from getting caught on one of the many rock angles, the 33-year-old often had to pull a length of rope two or three times – first on one hook, then on to the next.
"I'm not made for climbing in the sun"
Despite all precautions, this is exactly what happened on his second attempt on the fifth crux pitch (8a+/8b): Vanhee's rope got stuck 20 meters below him. The only option was to turn around, free the rope, and try a third attempt.
At this point, the rock was already in the blazing sun and the Belgian was sweating heavily in the rising temperatures.
Who would have thought it would be so hot at 3.500 meters?
Siebe Vanhee
But not so «petit»: Vanhee has to stay overnight
After a tactical nap, Siebe Vanhee once again ventured up the (now shaded) fifth pitch – this time successfully. The sixth and seventh pitches also required several more attempts from the big wall specialist, until he was finally forced to call it a day around 19 p.m.
I was a little disappointed that I got hit in the face by almost every pitch.
Siebe Vanhee
Although his goal of a one-day ascent (and even a potential onsight) of Voie Petit was missed, Vanhee approached the remaining 2 pitches with more calm on day 16. After two more falls, the Belgian was finally rewarded with an incredible view at the summit around 11 a.m.
Heavy multipitch solos are a way to get to know myself better.
Siebe Vanhee
Film about the inspection in spring 2026
In his first solo of Voie Petit, Siebe Vanhee accompanied by a camera crew – the documentary film produced by Edelrid will be released next spring.
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Credits cover photo: Bernardo Gimenez/Julien Nadiras