"LactoseFree" (M6, 300 m) is the name of the mixed route that Simon Gietl and Jakob Steinkasserer recently established on the north face of the High White Cinnamon They have opened. It is only the second route on the little-developed granite wall.
Second line ever on the north face of Weißzint
On May 9, 2026, the two South Tyroleans Simon Gietl and Jakob Steinkasserer opened a new high-alpine mixed route on the Hoher Weißzint (3.370 m). "LaktoseFrei" (M6) leads through the approximately 300-meter-high, rather unknown northern granite face to the summit of the Weißzint on the Zillertal main ridge.
How little is known? Gietl and Steinkasserer wanted to find out. Research in local climbing circles revealed: Indeed. existed previously only one other route on the entire north face – the direct line to the summit. It was first opened in 1935 by Fritz Kaspareck and Sepp Brunhuber, but very few have repeated it to this day.
About the route
The new line from Gietl and Steinkasserer leads to the right of the old tour The route ascended the slabby and very compact section. A fine ice line provided the logical route – the ascent repeatedly involved traversing couloirs and cracks. The first ascenders used five pitons and two spikes, which they left at the top. They also used a full set of cams (0-2.0) and nuts.
Simon Gietl says that »LaktoseFrei« (M6, 300 m) offers beautiful mixed climbing on solid granite. At the same time, he warns against underestimating the difficulty: »The climb is not always easy to protect.«
Even though the route's difficulty is at most M6, it should not be underestimated.
Simon Gietl
The M grade describes only the physical and technical demands of a mixed route, not the protection or the danger in case of a fall. "LactoseFree," with its sometimes difficult dry tooling on vertical to overhanging terrain, is only suitable for more experienced climbers.
Gietl & Steinkasserer at the opening of »LactoseFree« | Photos: Simon Gietl
How to find us
Drive through the Puster Valley into the Ahrn Valley and turn off at Mühlen into the Mühlwald Valley. Then follow the road to the Neves Reservoir (check road opening times!). Park near the dam.
boarding
Cross the dam to the west side of the lake and follow the lakeside road to approximately the middle of the lake. Ascend into the Pfeifholdertal valley on the clearly visible path.
Once you reach the tree line and the ground level, leave the path and ascend to the right along a slope towards the Weißzint. At the top of the slope, aim for the Schlegeisscharte pass, cross it, and you will be standing directly below the north face of the Weißzint.
Descent
Either on foot or, better yet, on skis via the upper Weißzintscharte to the Edelrauthütte and through the Pfeifholdertal to the Nevessee.
Gietl & Steinkasserer at the opening of »LactoseFree« | Photos: Simon Gietl
That might interest you
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Credits cover image: Simon Gietl