At the World Cup in Madrid, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the third of the season's three bouldering events so far, with gold going to Great Britain's Erin McNeice. In speed climbing, American Emma Hunt and China's Chu Shouhong triumphed.
Bouldering: Three out of three for Sorato Anraku
More than 280 athletes participated in the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Madrid – twelve of them took home medals. Sorato Anraku The Japanese athlete had already secured his third consecutive gold medal. Although the 19-year-old had to fight for a place among the top eight in the semi-finals, he was the only competitor to top all four boulders in the final.
I was able to climb more aggressively and with more power in the final than usual – because of what happened in the semi-final.
Sorato Anraku
Silver went to the American. Colin Duffy with three tops, having previously led the field in the semi-finals. It is only the second time that Duffy has stood on a Boulder World Cup podium – in 2022 he won the double World Cup in Innsbruck (Boulder & Lead).
The Frenchman won bronze. Samuel Richard, who prevailed with a top and three zones ahead of experienced finalists such as Dohyun Lee, Keita Dohi, and Dayan Akhtar. Two surprise contenders were also among the top eight men: Oscar Baudrand (Canada) and Guillermo Peinado Franganillo (Spain) competed in their first World Cup final in Madrid.
Impressions from the men's final & semi-final | Photos: Lena Drapella/World Climbing
Erin McNeice wins her first bouldering gold of the season
The women's competition also saw victory go to the only person who managed to top all four final boulders: the British woman. Erin McNeiceFor the 22-year-old Olympic climber, it is the second medal of the season – last weekend she won silver at the Boulder World Cup in Bern. McNeice also competes in Lead and, with one exception, always reached the final in both disciplines in 2025.
I knew I was aiming for gold, but winning here is never a given. You have to fight for it.
Erin McNeice
McNeice finished just behind him. Melody Sekikawa from Japan, who had previously qualified for the final in sixth place. The Asian vice-champion in bouldering was a regular among the top eight in both 2026 and 2025. Last year she won bronze in Prague.
The Frenchwoman landed in third place at the last second. Oriane Bertone, who had led the semi-finals. For the bouldering specialist, it is her first medal of the season: In Keqiao and Bern, she had reached the finals but hadn't made it onto the podium. In Madrid, Bertone prevailed over the other finalists, all of whom belong to the experienced world elite – including Oceania Mackenzie, Camilla Moroni, and Anon Matsufuji.
Impressions from the women's final | Photos: Lena Drapella/World Climbing
USA and China win in speed
At the Speed World Cup in Madrid, he won Emma Hunt The USA won her third World Cup gold medal. In the final, the 23-year-old also set a new Pan-American record with a time of 6,08 seconds. Silver went surprisingly to the Ukrainian. Polina Khalevyqh, who was competing in only her second adult World Cup there. Shaoqin Zhang China won bronze – just like at the 2024 World Cup in Madrid.
In the men's competition, the 19-year-old Chinese player prevailed. Shouhong Chu in front of the Indonesian Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi (Silver) and his countryman Jie Yang (Bronze). The fastest time in the men's final: 4,72 seconds – set by Al Hilmi in the race against Zach Hammer from the USA.
Men's and Women's Speed Podium | Photos: Lena Drapella/World Climbing
Madrid: first final with German participation in the 2026 season
In Madrid, it also reached Leander Carmanns The final – as the first German this season and across all disciplines. Carmanns finished 11th in the qualification and prevailed against the reigning world champion Jianguo in the round of 16. Long made it through. In the quarterfinals, he was eliminated after a fall against Zach Hammer and finished eighth.
For the German bouldering competitors, the World Cup in Madrid ended no later than the semi-finals. There they reached Thorben Perry Bloem The best German finished in 16th place. Lucia Doerffel She was the only woman from Team Germany to reach the semi-finals and achieved 22nd place.
Next stop: Prague (Boulder & Lead)
For the bouldering athletes, the competition continues seamlessly this weekend in Prague, where from June 3st to 7th The second Lead World Cup of the season will be held. The next Speed World Cup will take place from July 3rd to 5th in Krakow.
All dates for the current 2026 season you can find here.
That might interest you
- Sorato Anraku defends his bouldering title in Keqiao, Zélia Avezou's first World Cup gold
- Zhao Yicheng shatters the speed world record – 4.58 seconds!
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Credits cover photo: Lena Drapella/World Climbing