Yesterday, the medals in the Lead discipline were awarded at the 2019 World Championships. Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret are this year's winners. Alex Megos and Jakob Schubert take the places 2 and 3 in the men's category. Mia Krampl and Ai Mori won the 2 for the ladies. and 3. Space. Jessica Pilz took rank 6. Sascha Lehmann missed the entry into the final round.
It was a fight of the giants: Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi and Kai Harada stood in the final of the men. Adam Ondra, who also started in all laps like Schubert, fought his way into the exit plate, where he found a short detent position that Schubert did not use and just surpassed the Austrian with his last reserves of power with a rating of 34 + for one and a half moves.
Alexander Megos, who in contrast to Ondra and Schubert had two fewer competition rounds and one rest day, fought his way into the exit plate despite several mistakes and reached the same height as Schubert, which earned him the silver medal due to the better semi-final placing.
“I expected Alex Megos to climb higher than me. He was so incredibly strong in the qualifying round and in the semifinals. I was lucky that I won the final anyway. "Adam Ondra
Janja Garnbret with double gold medal
The Slovenian Janja Garnbret is simply not to slow down. Overall World Cup winner in the Diszplin Bouldering, second in the Overall World Cup in the lead discipline and now double world champion in the disciplines of bouldering and lead. What a balance! With her in the lead final were among others Jessica mushroom, Akiyo Noguchi and Chaehyun Seo.
On Saturday, the decision to participate in the combination rating
Today Friday, 16.08.2019, is the first real day of rest for the World Climbing Championships in Tokyo before it continues on Saturday with the last World Cup individual decision, the speed climbing. It will then be decided which 20 ladies and men will qualify for the World Cup combination competition based on the results in the three individual disciplines (Boulder, Lead, Speed).
Video: Highlights of the Lead Finals
Video replay and information on all competitions
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Credits: Titelbild Lukas Biba / AO Productions, other pictures IFSC, Text sections Austria Climbing