9b first ascent again: Seb Bouin climbs Ariégeois Cœur Loyal

In the French sports climbing prayer Pic Saint Loup, Seb Bouin manages the first ascent of an extremely difficult route: Ariégeois Cœur Loyal. Bouin gives a rating of 9b.

The Frenchman Sébastien Bouin has long since climbed into the Olympus of the strongest outdoor athletes. La Rage d'Adam (9b / +),  Supreme Jumbo Love (9b +) or Nordic marathon (130m, 9b/+) are among the most difficult routes in the world - all of them were first climbed by Seb Bouin and none of them have been repeated so far. A possible reason for the lack of motivated repeaters may be that Bouin's routes are rated as rock-hard.

Video: This is how Seb Bouin climbs Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b)

Steep start to the season

Bouin set up another impressive test piece five years ago at Pic Saint Loup. Last autumn he was almost able to climb the route, but failed on the second to last train. After a seasonal break, Bouin tackled the route again in the spring.

“The route was really a challenge. There were two tough 20-meter sections to climb."

Seb Bouin

Just a few days ago, Bouin expressed uncertainty as to whether the ascent would soon work out. The route consists of two difficult sections, both located in area 9a, which have to be climbed in one go. "Luckily there is a resting point between the two sections," Bouin quipped earlier this month. But despite the difficulty of the entire line, Bouin did not hesitate. Last Friday he made short work of it and added another high-end route to his ticklist with Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b).

Bouin didn't hesitate for long. Last Friday he managed the first ascent of Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b).
Bouin didn't hesitate for long. Last Friday he managed the first ascent of Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b).

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Sam Bie

News

German Bouldering Championship | Info & Livestream

Here you can find the live stream and all important information about the German Bouldering Championships on June 14/15 in Pfungstadt.

This climbing rope is significantly more cut-resistant Mammut Core Protect Rope

More cut-resistant thanks to the aramid sheath: With the Core Protect Rope, the Swiss mountain sports equipment manufacturer Mammut is setting new standards.

Historical: Expedition team reaches Cho Oyu from the Nepalese side

A 7-person team led by Gelje Sherpa climbed Cho Oyu via a new route on the extremely difficult Nepalese side.
00:15:27

5 time-saving tips for efficient training

Today there are 5 time-saving tips on how you can significantly shorten your training routine without sacrificing progress.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

German Bouldering Championship | Info & Livestream

Here you can find the live stream and all important information about the German Bouldering Championships on June 14/15 in Pfungstadt.

This climbing rope is significantly more cut-resistant Mammut Core Protect Rope

More cut-resistant thanks to the aramid sheath: With the Core Protect Rope, the Swiss mountain sports equipment manufacturer Mammut is setting new standards.

Historical: Expedition team reaches Cho Oyu from the Nepalese side

A 7-person team led by Gelje Sherpa climbed Cho Oyu via a new route on the extremely difficult Nepalese side.
×Display Ads_350 90_Purja
×Display Ads_350 90_Purja