Alessandro Zeni climbs one of the most difficult MSL routes in the world with Wu Wei

The strong Italian climber Alessandro Zeni succeeds in the first free ascent of the multi-pitch route Wu Wei (180m, 9a). The line involves complex technical friction climbing up to difficulty level 9a, making it one of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world.

The 32-year-old Italian Alessandro Zeni has made a name for itself as a plate specialist with the first ascent of Cryptography (9b) in Saint Loup and the repeat of Eternit (9a+) in Baule. He once again demonstrated his strong talent for technical friction climbing on August 16, 2023. On that day he made his first free ascent in Val Nuvola, Italy Wu Wei (180m, 9a max, 8a obl.).

Wu Wei: Ground up established in 2016

Alessandro Zeni set up the difficult multi-pitch route together with Riccardo Scarian in 2016. It took the two climbers around 15 days to drill the six pitches (7c, 8a+, 7c+, 9a, 7c, 8b) in Val Nuvola from below.

In 2022, the 32-year-old Italian began projecting Wu Wei. Another year would pass before the first free ascent of the extremely difficult multi-pitch route. On August 16th everything came together and Alessandro Zeni was able to climb all six pitches in three and a half hours without falling.

Alessandro Zeni climbs Cryptography

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Credits: Cover picture Carpos