Alexander Megos clears in Margalef: The Full Journey (9b, FA)

Alex Megos manages the first ascent of The Full Journey (9b) in the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef. The day before, within a few hours, he landed Off the Tractor (8c), Patan el villano (8c, flash) and Patatas el villano (8c +, FA).

The German professional climber Alexander Megos. is in top form and puts this in Margalef demonstrated in an impressive way. In the sector Raco de la Finestra, where he already played in 2018 Perfecto Mundo (9b +) left a touchstone, he managed the first ascent of The Full Journey.

The Full Journey: Difficult despite a good resting point

Megos already had an eye on the von in April Tom Bolger pierced line thrown. "I knew that despite the good snap-in point at the deflector of the first part, it wouldn't be easy to put the two lengths of The Full Journey (9b) together."

Display Ads Rectangle_Trailrunning

In his first week in Margalef he was able to repeat the first pitch. It took another six days of trying before he was able to add the second part. The first pitch of The Full Journey (9b) is pure endurance, mostly on two-finger holes, with a hard one-finger pull in the middle, says Megos. "In the second part, a boulder awaits with a pretty nasty dead point move into a one-finger hole and a few more hard moves."

"In the second part, a boulder awaits with a pretty nasty dead point move into a one-finger hole and a few more hard moves."

Alexander Megos.

Hard hole climbing: Exactly Megos' style

Alexander Megos describes the difficulty of his most recent first ascent as follows: "If there weren't a good resting point between the two lengths, the route would definitely be next level." But even with the rest she is still tough enough. That's why Megos suggests grade 9b as an evaluation. "Both parts suit me quite well in terms of style, so I'm curious to see what repeaters say about the difficulty."

"If there weren't a good resting point between the two lengths, the route would definitely be next level."

Alexander Megos.
Alex Megos in Tom Bolger's line Off the Tractor (8c). Image: Gabriela Ulisse
Alex Megos in Tom Bolger's line Off the Tractor (8c). Picture: Gabriela Ulisse

Successful day in new sector

The fact that Alexander Megos is currently quite strong was already evident the day before when Tom Bolger showed him a newly developed sector. Within a few hours he got the repetitions of Off the tractor (8c) Patan el Villano (8c, Flash) and the first ascent of Patata el Villano (8c +).

What the physical condition of Alex Megos is due to can only be guessed at. The joint training with Christopher Hanke certainly contributes to it. And as the most recent video of the two shows, Megos also "optimized" some weight before he left for Spain.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Meri Mendez

News

Outdoor enthusiasts meet here: Misoxperience Festival 2024

Attention bouldering and outdoor fans: The Misoxperience Outdoor Festival will take place for the third time in Misox, Graubünden, from May 4th to 12th.

Jernej Kruder conquers 9a hybrid route with offwidth topout

Despite the external conditions: Jernej Kruder repeats Ignacio Mulero's 9a hybrid route La Bruja in La Pedriza.

Is trail running the perfect training for alpinists?

Trail running as training for alpinists: Today we'll take a closer look at whether and how running has benefits for mountaineering.

Memories of David Lama on the 5th anniversary of his death

5th anniversary of the deaths of David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Jess Rosskelley. In memory of three exceptional phenomena in modern mountaineering.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Outdoor enthusiasts meet here: Misoxperience Festival 2024

Attention bouldering and outdoor fans: The Misoxperience Outdoor Festival will take place for the third time in Misox, Graubünden, from May 4th to 12th.

Jernej Kruder conquers 9a hybrid route with offwidth topout

Despite the external conditions: Jernej Kruder repeats Ignacio Mulero's 9a hybrid route La Bruja in La Pedriza.

Is trail running the perfect training for alpinists?

Trail running as training for alpinists: Today we'll take a closer look at whether and how running has benefits for mountaineering.