Jules Marchaland has made the first ascent of Thon Glillé (9a) in Carros near Nice. The 24-year-old climbed eleven routes between 9a and 9b last year alone.
He's somehow managing to juggle everything at the moment: Jules Marchaland has climbed his first 9b in the last six months, as the second person in the world 8C flashed and participated in three Lead World Cups. A few weeks ago, the Frenchman also climbed Kangaroo's Limb (9a+) and Illusionist (9a) in FlatangerNow the 24-year-old from Nice has made the first ascent of another difficult line right on his doorstep: Thon glillé (9a) in Carros.
Full tension in the large roof – climb through on the third attempt.
Jules Marchaland
No line from Marchaland itself
Marchland is "only" the first ascent of Thon Glillé (9a)—he didn't establish the route. His compatriot Cedric Lo Piccolo bolted it as a personal project, while his wife attempted Chocholocco (9a) on the same rock. After his Flatanger trip, Jules Marchaland had some time back home and got wind of the previously unclimbed route.
Cedric told me about his project and I thought: Why not?
Jules Marchaland
Interview: 9a-FA, competition exit & future plans
It shouldn't take more than a little time: In just three days, the 24-year-old had completed Thon Gillé (9a). We talked to him about the first ascent of the route.
Du schreibst at 8a.nuthat the route is chipped – what influence did this have on your ascent?
Jules Marchaland: There are three or four chipped holds in a section of the wall that's otherwise completely clean. Thon Glillé is located on a rock face with many chipped lines from the 90s and 2000s. That wasn't really a problem for me because the route still works well.
The Carros area is just 15 minutes from your doorstep – is it worth a visit even if you're not a local?
To be honest, there are more rewarding routes in the region, like the Gorges du Loup. Nevertheless, I found Thon Glillé (9a) to be a super exciting and fun route, extremely physical and demanding to climb.
You've been switching between competitions, bouldering, and climbing a lot this year. Why does that work so well for you?
I just love practicing a little bit of everything. I used to be primarily a sport climber and trained for lead climbing competitions. Now I've actually stopped competing and can devote more time to my projects.
I just love climbing and pulling on holds.
Jules Marchaland
Is there a discipline that appeals to you most right now?
Right now, I'm most interested in bouldering. Since I'm no longer competing, it's okay that I'm losing some stamina. I think this is where I have the most potential to discover new things.
I think I have the most to discover in bouldering at the moment.
Jules Marchaland
2025 is coming to an end. Where will you go next?
To the USA! I'm going on a big trip with friends. Before that, I'll probably go to Fionnay, Fontainebleau, and the gym so I'm fit for bouldering in the States.
That might interest you
- Action Discrète 9a – First ascent and direct repeat
- Jules Marchaland climbs new 9b with Mega-Dyno in Claret
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Credits cover photo: Eliott Donnini