The market for climbing finches is already saturated, you might think. Nevertheless, Black Diamond lately brings climbing shoes on the market. In the field of hardware, the American manufacturer is already established and known, for example for carabiners, clamps, wedges or climbing harnesses. Accordingly, we were looking forward to the finches (Momentum), which we have tested for you.
A contribution by Jeannine Zubler
I put the Black Diamond Momentum through its paces, respectively rock and plastic. The shoe consists of the materials polyester (80%), polyamide (20% Gore-Tex ® Pro, 20 g / m2, 20 denier) and weighs 427 grams (reweighed).
New knitting technology makes it possible
At first glance, the Momentum is more reminiscent of a lifestyle shoe than a climbing finch. The noble design is very simple and airy. Instead of leather as the upper material, Black Diamond uses fine, knitted fabric, which looks very noble. Black Diamond is thus going a different way than all other shoe manufacturers who rely on leather as an upper material. This "Engineered Knit Technology", as Black Diamond calls the material, has so far been used in all Black Diamond climbing shoes. It is very air-permeable and therefore breathable, which is a great advantage for a climbing finch. The material is comfortable to wear and lies directly on the skin, as the shoe is not padded or lined. The shoe is therefore more suitable for spring / summer and the climbing hall.
Better fit thanks to molded sole
Black Diamond goes new ways with the soles. This is not punched from a rubber plate, but poured directly into the mold, which is a better fit to be achieved. This "cast" stands out immediately and is a big plus of the shoes. The momentum is a unit, with no annoying seams or edges, where the sole begins to loosen after some time as in my previous climbing shoes. The middle of the sole consists of a Pebax-plastic, which is known for its high load capacity. This should keep the shoe in the long term its shape and tension.
More contact surface for friction climbing
The sole of the shoe is hard and almost without bias. The middle is more flexible and easy to bend. This brings a lot of support surface on the rock in Reibungsklettereien and has better grip. An ideal shoe for long tours and Plattenklettereien. The top is rather thick and wide. The sole offers good grip on the rock as well as in the hall. For very small holes, the tip is too clunky. The heel is no different from other shoe models. It has no special rubber edges or hook zones. Also for toehooks Black Diamond has no rubberized surface processed, but this is not relevant in the application of the shoe (beginners).
Finally climb without pain
The size was very astonishing. The Black Diamond Momentum is the first climbing shoe that I don't buy two sizes smaller, but that is already tight enough in my correct shoe size. The fit of climbing finches is of course something very individual. Anyone who has already squeezed their feet in the uncomfortable vices probably has their preferences for damage limitation with maximum performance. The momentum below is too narrow for wide feet and painfully presses on the big toe. On the other hand, he is comparatively far on the instep. The straps allow it to be put on and individually adapted to the foot. Overall, the shoe sits very snugly on the foot.
Rating
Pro
- Cool design
- Suitable for beginners
- Good grip
- Breathable upper
Contra
- Nothing for wide feet
verdict
The Black Diamond Momentum is a great shoe for beginners, for longer trips or flat routes. The airy, lightweight design comes from a cast thanks to new technology. The newly developed Engineered Knit Technology upper material is very breathable and gives the shoe something very elegant. He looks more like a casual shoe than a climbing fin.
The Black Diamond Momentum climbing shoe
about the author
Jeannine Zubler is a freelance journalist and copywriter. She spends every free minute in the mountains and climbing and writes about everything that happens in the vertical. www.jeanninezubler.com