New sole instead of a new shoe: the time to resole

The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?

Those who wait will pay the price.

Climbing shoes are the most consumable item in climbing. Soft rubber, high frequency, rough climbing walls: the sole in the toe area wears down long before the rest of the shoe shows any signs of wear.

The process is almost identical for all models. First the sole is produced, then the rand, then the upper. And the costs increase in exactly this order. As long as only the sole has worn down, the repair is a routine job. If the rand is worn through or the big toe is already showing, a rand repair is necessary. This is not only more expensive, but it also affects the shoe's construction. The rand has to be detached from the upper and re-glued, which unfortunately doesn't improve the shoe's tension.

Resoles only when the toe is sticking out?

The most reliable guideline comes from the workshops themselves. The Innsbruck-based climbing shop bolting.eu, official resoling partner of La Sportiva and Scarpa, specifies the exact time on its service page: The shoe is considered to be resoled if the original sole is still about one millimeter thick and the edge of the sole is not yet visible from below. If the toe of the shoe appears significantly thinner and slight cracks are visible, it should be examined more closely.

If the original sole is completely worn down, the quality of the resole decreases accordingly, according to the manufacturer. In practical terms, this means: if your toe is already sticking out, it's too late. As a rule of thumb, two to three resoles per pair are recommended for the overall lifespan of the shoes; after that, the remaining material deteriorates. How many resoles are actually possible depends on the condition of the upper and how well the shoe has been cared for.

Original lasts or the shoemaker around the corner

This is the difference that will later become noticeable on the rock. During resoling, the shoe is stretched onto a last. If this last doesn't match the model, the shoe comes back with a different shape. Brands like La Sportiva and Scarpa, in particular, have authorized resolers who work on original lasts. With most resoling services, the shoes are sent directly to these authorized resolers.

Things to consider when making your selection:

• Is the business an authorized resolver of your shoe brand?
• Does he work with original trims and original spare parts – including the edging rubber, Velcro, and pull-on loops?
• How long does the process take, and what are the return shipping costs?
• For shoes with a high degree of tension: Inquire whether the model is even available on original lasts.

Flat shoes often come back almost like new after the first resoling. With a pronounced downturn, this effect is less noticeable: the feel underfoot changes, even with meticulous work. Most providers charge between €50 and €80, depending on whether the resoler uses an original last or not.

For comparison: A Scarpa Drago has a recommended retail price of €179,90, while a La Sportiva Solution costs around €135 depending on the retailer. Resoling therefore costs roughly a third of the new price, and you get back a shoe that's already broken in.

Where you can drop off your shoes

A selection of businesses that resole climbing shoes or accept them for resoling:

Germany

• climbingshoes.de
• ofriction
• travel & trek

Austria

• Solemates
• bolting.eu
• Staudinger shoe

Switzerland

• Gecko Repair Service
• Shoefizz
• Shoe workshop Bern

The shortest route often doesn't even involve the post office: Many climbing gyms and climbing shoe retailers now have their own collection points.

Which rubber belongs on the shoe

Most workshops let you choose the mixture yourself.

• Vibram XS Grip 2 (Typically 4 mm): Maximum friction, high sensitivity, good edge stability. However, it wears down faster. The choice when friction and sensitivity are paramount.
• Vibram XS EdgeSignificantly more abrasion-resistant and edge-stable, but with less friction. The first choice for small footholds and long durability.
• Thicker versions (For example, Vibram XS Grip in 5 mm): last longer and provide more grip, but reduce sensitivity. This makes little sense on highly pre-tensioned performance shoes.

The rand rubber is separate: German manufacturers typically use Vibram in 1,8 to 2 mm thickness, while bolting.eu uses Vibram MS rubber. It's usually best to use the same compound that was previously on the shoe. This way, you already know how the shoe behaves and only change the thickness, not the shoe itself.

When resoling is no longer worthwhile

Not every shoe can be saved, and not every saved shoe is worth it:

• The upper material is stretched out or torn; the shoe no longer has any structure.
• The hole in the toe area is so large that the edge and sole have to be rebuilt together – then the bill approaches the price of a used shoe.
• The shoe never fit properly.
• This is already the third or fourth time they've been resoled.

If in doubt, most repair shops won't send the shoe back without asking, but will get in touch with an assessment. Either way: practicing precise footwork is worthwhile for both performance and the shoe!

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Credits Cover image: Adobe Stock