First free ascent of the route Free Nardella on Piz Badile by Marcel Schenk and David Hefti

On 17./18. September 2019 succeeds Marcel Schenk and David Hefti the first free ascent of the climbing route Free Nardella on Piz Badile. This is probably the most difficult free climbing route on Badile. The route was first reached by four Italians in technical climbing in the year 1973 and has been repeated twice since then.

The northeast pier on the Piz Badile is probably the wildest and most repellent corner in Bergell. Only the ascent from the south side, over the Colle del Cengalo, involves more than two thousand meters of climb. Then it is abseiled seven times in the faded Klucker Couloir on the north side. There is no turning back after the fourth abseil length. The path leads only over the summit.

Picture govertical.ch

Waiting for the perfect day

Everything has to be right for this tour; we were already aware of this during the planning and information search. After some research and a meeting with Danielo Valsecchi, who managed the first and so far only winter walk, we found out that the route has only two repetitions. The idea of ​​trying this old route in free climbing became a plan, a plan that would only work out in the best conditions. This is how the summer goes by. At the beginning of september it is snowing. The season at Piz Badile seems to be over.

But suddenly we might have a chance for a try. Slowly the snow melts in the Bergell. So we decide to break up.

Taken awake by aching fingers

We wake up again and again. One, because we're cold because of the biting north wind, the other because the fingers and the rest of the body are hurting from the hardships of the last two days. However, we are in a good mood on our portaledge, which hangs like a liferaft at the end of the big trouble. The day before, as a team, we were able to climb all the difficult pitches freely. Teamwork is a must on this route.

After the long ascent and the first, relatively simpler section, the center piece challenged us. Over several pitches, the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging and offers incredible climbing.

The pain in the fingers rob the two of them from sleep. (Picture govertical.ch)

Old hook material requires the highest concentration

The existing coverage is hair-raising. The old hooks are far from reliable. Some of them can be removed by hand or simply break off when looking up with a hammer. Full concentration is required. We try to supplement the protection as much as possible with mobile security devices. It is more the psychological strain in the lead that pushes us to the limit here than the pure climbing difficulties. After two persistently difficult pitches, we take a break on the portaledge and study the next pitch with tension. The line goes straight up over several overhangs. We have many questions. «Does it have enough grips to climb freely? »« Can it be secured properly? " and and and…

"Rather, it is the psychological stress in the lead that pushes us to the limit here."

Vertical to slightly overhanging climbing

Questions that can only be answered if we try. So Mäse gets ready. Already after the first climbing meters, the pulse is felt to be over two hundred. Difficult climbing with not quite optimal protection bring Mäse to the limit. After about fifteen meters, the largest roof comes. Under the edge of the roof, a perfect knee-jamming can be made and thus a recovery is possible. After the roof we continue on small ledges and after 35 meters comes the cheering cry: «Stand». We are on course to reach our goal. Another demanding rope length brings us under a slightly overhanging plate, which has only very little structure.

The free-climbing dream is shaking

It's already after 18.00 clock. We're already on 14 hours and it's getting dark in less than an hour. In short, the mood is dropping, because the record does not look really rock-solid. We discuss a possible variant of the stand on the right and hope to find rock with more structure. The first climbers have simply drilled themselves directly over the smooth wall by means of a hook ladder.

"After a couple of vigorous bouldering moves on razor-sharp handles, David holds the edge above the slab, cheering."

David wants to check out the plate before the bivouac and climbs up the old hook, he cleans some structures and says he wants to try it once. After a few hefty bouldering moves on razor-sharp handles, David jubilantly holds the edge above the plate. Now it is clear that it is possible. David climbs on. Twenty minutes later and with a pretty exposed version, David is in the dark at the next stand at the end of the big trouble.

Thanks to the refreshing north wind, the friction is perfect. (Picture govertical.ch)

Climbing in the forehead lamp light

In the light of the headlamp Mäse rises. He can hardly believe it, with every move he has the feeling to overthrow right away but the grip is so perfect because of the refreshing north wind that he sticks to his fingers and toes. Once at the top, the relief is huge. With numb fingers we set ourselves up for the night with the knowledge to have the main difficulty behind us.

The supposedly easy way to the summit

After a more or less relaxed night, we take it easy the next morning. We do not expect much difficulty in the last five pitches to the summit. This appearance is deceptive, so we are confronted after a short time with snow and ice and the climbing challenge us to the last meter. Around lunchtime we stand with bag and bag on the summit. Relief and joy are huge, but there is still a long descent waiting for us.

Done! (Picture govertical.ch)

About the climbing route Free Nardella (7b +, 7a obl. Expo!)

First ascent of "Via Nardella" (V, A3, 900m) by Elio Scarabelli, Tiziano Nardella, Daniela Chiappa and Giulio Martinelli from 9. - 13. September 1973.

On the first free ascent on September 17 & 18, 2019, David Hefti and Marcel Schenk choose a more direct entry variant over the first two pitches of the “Via Hiroshima” (6a, 6c +) and thus reach the intersection systems of the Via Nardella. At two stands, they add a new one to the existing old bolts.

Topo of the route Free Nardella

Video: First free ascent of the multi-pitch route Free Nardella at Piz Badile

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Credits: picture and text www.govertical.ch

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