When Pete Whittaker first climbed the offwidth crack The Cleaver (2023a) in Day Canyon near Moab in the fall of 8, he almost passed out from the exertion. The line also demanded full commitment from crack and offwidth specialists Tom Randall and Mary Eden, as the latest Wide-Boyz shows.
Offwidth climbing requires a much higher pain tolerance and willingness to suffer than classic sport climbing. The Cleavers (8a) seems to set new standards in this regard. At least that sums it up Pete Whittaker after his flash first ascent of the route discovered and set up by Evan Wisheropp.
I've climbed a lot of offwidths and never felt like I might actually pass out or vomit after a hard effort. I mean, I tried hard and it was bad, but never this bad.
Pete Whittaker
When he climbed the offwidth, he was well above his bearable maximum. "After I got through the crux, my lights almost went out and I could barely make the few simple moves to the stand."
“The Cleaver was a real red line and beyond moment.”
Pete Whittaker
Also Tom randall, the second half of the Wide Boyz, and the “Trad-Princess” Mary Catherine Eden The Cleaver demanded everything, as the video above shows. However, this did not dampen their enthusiasm for the new offwidth test piece in Day Canyon outside Moab, Utah:
A very nice route in many ways as the range of techniques used goes far beyond most offwidths I've done.
Tom randall
That might interest you
- Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva conquer icy offwidth crack
- Adam Ondra: Epic battle in the Belly Full of Bad Berries off-width route
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Credits: Cover picture Wide Boyz