A few days after his success in the Alpstein, the Belgian Siebe Vanhee moved to the nearby climbing area of ​​Rätikon. Within two days he managed the red point ascent of the difficult multi-pitch route Neverending Story (8b +, 11SL).

Long torched Siebe Vanhee with the Kammerlander Tour Neverending History at the 7th Kirchlispitze im Rätikon Not. Siebe used the first day on the route to study the most difficult passages. He was accompanied by Michi Wohllebenwho accompanied him that day.

Compared to the burning sun in the Parzival route in Alpstein last week, we are happy about the great friction.

Sieve Vanhee on the first day of the route

Siebe used the second day to relax, because his fingers were battered from climbing. The first attempt to get through was planned for the third day. Michi Wohlleben put his own project on hold to secure sieves when attempting to climb through. The pressure on sieves was great, but his motto was: “Nothing to loose!”

Bare limestone on the multi-pitch route Neverending History in the Rätikon. (Photo Michi Wohlleben)
Bare limestone on the multi-pitch route Neverending History in the Rätikon. (Photo Michi Wohlleben)

A first stumbling block was waiting for sieves on the fourth pitch (7c +). The start was wet, which is why he needed a second attempt. In the following two key lengths (8b and 8b +), he only needed a second attempt in 8b. One foot slipped off his feet while doing technical slab climbing. The Belgian mastered all the other easier but nevertheless complex pitches without a fall and scored the Neverending Story route on the second day of the tour.

Another Kammerlander test piece done. The route is older than me, amazing!

Siebe Vanhee
This is how the Never Ending Story route runs at the 7th Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon. (Photo Beat Kammerlander)
This is how the Never Ending Story route runs at the 7th Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon. (Photo Beat Kammerlander)

During the inspection, Siebe had the feeling that the second key length did not correspond to an 8b +. He saw video recordings of the ascent of the two strong climbers Nina Caprez and Babsi Zangerl on. His conclusion: a central handle has apparently broken out and has thus grown. This means that a long train is possible, making the route easier than it used to be. Siebe Vanhee therefore suggests a difficulty of 8b for this pitch.

The route has become easier due to a broken grip. I suggest 8b for the key length.

Siebe Vanhee

Neverending story at the seventh Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon

The route Never ending Story (8b +, 11 pitches, 400m) was thirty years ago Beat Kammerlander set up and in 1991 freely climbed through the same for the first time. The route remained quiet for a long time; it was considered to be one of the most demanding routes in the entire Alpine region.

It wasn't until 2008 that the Italian succeeded Pietro dal Prà a first repetition of the route. Another seven years passed before the route could be repeated again. Back then it was the two strong climbers Nina Caprez and Babsi Zangerlwho secured only the third and fourth red point ascent of Neverending History.

Video about the inspection of Neverending Story by Barbara Zangerl and Nina Caprez

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here..

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Pictures Michi Wohlleben