Stefano Ghisolfi climbs his long-term project Excalibur in Arco. The route, rated 9b+, is not only the hardest first ascent of the Italian climbing professional to date, but also the most difficult sport climbing route in Italy.
Stefano Ghisolfi's Persistence has paid off: at the beginning of February he managed the first ascent of his mega project Excalibur (9b +) in bow. It's hard to imagine a more perfect line than this, enthuses the Italian climbing pro.
Video: Stefano Ghisolfi's just before the climb
Excalibur: joint project in the high-end sector
The best thing about this project, however, was the people who accompanied it, says Ghisolfi: "The shared moments and the attempts with some of the best climbers in the world, but above all with my friends."
The strong Italian opened his line in Arco early on and invited the strongest climbers in the world - including Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Will Bosi - to try them together.
«Without a doubt 9b+»
For Excalibur - long considered a potential 9c during the project planning phase - Stefano Ghisolfi suggests a difficulty level of 9b+. A valuation proposal that he has no doubts about.
Ondra developed a shorter version of Excalibur, which starts roughly in the middle of the wall. Buro starts with a huge dynamo from the neighboring rock and, according to Ondra, can be a 9b on its own. However, the tough 8B/8B+ boulder problem at the start is left out.
That might interest you
- Will Bosi climb Ghisolfi's mega-project Excalibur soon?
- Stefano Ghisolfi in the shape of his life | Video
- Climbing in the sunny part of Switzerland: Tessin Rock | climbing guide
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here .
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Marco Erspamer