A few days ago the Scotsman Will Bosi succeeded in repeating the Mutation route in the Peak District. This is the first repetition of the route since Steve McClure's first free ascent 23 years ago. Will Bosi upgrades the route in terms of difficulty. Once again the question arises: Do the history books have to be rewritten?

The year is 1998. Steve mcclure if the free ascent of the route Mutation succeeds and suggests a level of difficulty of 9a. Since then, the route has become quiet. The route was tried again and again, but no one was able to clip the diverter without falling. Until a few days ago.

40 tests invested over four years

A few days after his successful bouldering trip to Switzerland Will Bosi pays a visit to the Raven Tor climbing area. He would like to get back on the route once more. Mutation has been on the Scots radar for a long time and cost him around 40 sessions spread over 4 years before he successfully climbed through. So nothing with “came, saw, won”, the credo with which he recently hacked off the toughest boulders in Switzerland.

But then, last week, everything obviously went together. Physical fitness and external conditions. Will Bosi gets the first repetition of the route 23 years after the first free ascent.

"I still can not believe it. Thank you so much Steve McClure for setting up this epic line. In my opinion it was indisputably the most difficult route in the world at the time. "

Will Bosi

In the course of communicating about his red point ascent of the route, Will Bosi said that at the time of the first free ascent by Steve McClure, Mutation was undoubtedly the most difficult route in the world. He implicitly gives the route 9b. Nevertheless, it explicitly communicates 9a + as a grade. What is the matter now?

Will Bosi committing mutation. (Image Band of Birds)
Will Bosi committing mutation. (Image Band of Birds)

Will Bosi: Is mutation the first 9b in the world?

The fact is that Will Bosi had to invest significantly more sessions in the free ascent compared to other routes in the ninth degree of French. For the red point ascent of the 9b route Capella a year ago, Will only needed three sessions. Regarding the route mutation, Will explains that the first part (evolution) is considered confirmed 8c +. The extension should be classified again in the area 8c +. If you combine the two parts, the result is simply no 9a, explains Will Bosi. This leads him to the argument that mutation must be significantly more severe than 9a.

“Is mutation the first 9b in the world? Maybe. Time and future repeaters will tell. For the moment I leave the route at 9a + "

Will Bosi

Will does not dare to rate the route with 9b yet and initially gives 9a + as the difficulty. Should the grade level out at 9b in the future, however, mutation would be the world's first route at this grade - which would have to rewrite the history books.

Will Bosi in conversation with Tom Randall about committing mutation

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here .

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Band of Birds