Alexander Megos ends his climbing career – and plans the Seven Summits | April Fool's joke!

The 32-year-old from Erlangen is giving up sport climbing and setting himself a new goal: to climb the seven highest peaks in the world – by the time he's 35. In an interview, he explains why now is the right time.

It's news that's likely to surprise the climbing world: Alexander Megos, one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, is retiring from competitive and sport climbing. Instead of continuing to work towards the 2028 Olympics, competing in World Cups, or projecting new extreme routes, the professional athlete plans to dedicate himself to mountaineering in the coming years. He has a specific goal: the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each of the seven continents.

The decision wasn't made overnight. He had already undertaken his first excursions into alpine terrain last year – without the public knowing. Together with his friend Chris Hanke, he climbed, among other peaks, the Ortler, a 3905-meter-high mountain in the Alps.

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From 9c projects to the highest peaks

Besides persistent finger problems, Megos cites a dwindling motivation as the main reason for the change: "I'm just kind of fed up with climbing. Honestly." This honesty might be surprising, but Megos elaborates: He'd been asking himself repeatedly over the past year whether it wasn't time for something new. "And I think so, I'm still practically young as a mountaineer. So, why not?"

The plan: Seven Summits by age 35

Megos hasn't just set himself a vague goal, but already has a concrete order in mind. He'll start with Mont Blanc – "because it's just around the corner and not that challenging," says the professional boulderer from Erlangen. Next comes Kilimanjaro, followed by Aconcagua and Denali. To climb Mount Everest, he first needs a permit, which requires a successful ascent of a 7,000-meter peak – that's already planned, too. The expedition will conclude with Mount Vinson in Antarctica, Puncak Jaya in Oceania, and finally Everest itself.

His timeline: he wants to have all seven summits under his belt by his 35th birthday. "It certainly won't be easy, but it should be realistic," he says.

Training and financing

Mego's climbing partner Christoph Hanke is expected to join him for at least some of the summits. "I think he'll accompany me on at least half of the mountains." Whether Hanke will also be part of the Everest expedition is still undecided.

The preparations so far have been kept secret: Last year, Megos climbed the Ortler together with Hanke, and the two also undertook several tours around Chamonix. "Simply to gain alpine experience." He deliberately kept to himself the fact that these trips served as preparation for something bigger. "I didn't want to raise expectations too early."

To finance the project, Megos plans to sell his share of the Frankenjura Academy in Forchheim – the climbing gym he opened in 2024. "I'm finding it hard to part with the gym because it's become a bit like a baby to me." But he sees no other option: Doing both at the same time – mountaineering at this level and running a climbing gym – would be unfair to both the sport and the gym.

Comment by sports physician Dr. Volker Schöffel

Megos' physiotherapist, sports physician Dr. Volker Schöffel, has mixed feelings about the project but supports it. "At some point, you have to accept that you've reached your peak and can't go any further. And then I think it's right to look for new goals." Everest is a serious undertaking. The training plan is clear: Megos needs to gain weight, build up his leg muscles, and acclimatize in the altitude tent. "We have to get rid of those skinny legs," he says bluntly. Technically, he sees no major problems. Schöffel is convinced: "He'll manage it."

Sustainability: The blind spot

Megos has been a vocal advocate for climate protection in the past and has consciously avoided flying for competitions. Now, he has to travel around the world multiple times for the Seven Summits. He acknowledges the contradiction but justifies it: Climbing such a summit is something very special – not comparable to a World Cup trip. "You have to look after yourself every now and then."

Whether Megos will actually manage to climb all Seven Summits remains to be seen. Everest alone is logistically, financially, and physically in a different league than anything he has done before. But one thing is clear: the decision has been made, the plan is in place – and Megos sounds as determined as ever.

You might be interested in:

• Between philosophy of life and performance expectations | Interview with Alex Megos
• 8c+ onsight | Alex Mego's impressive tick list from France

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Credits: Cover photo Lacrux