A few days ago, Carlo Traversi made the first repeat of the Meltdown (5.14c / 8c +) Trad Rift route in the Yosemite Valley.
Like many international athletes, the American is cavorting Carlo Traversi currently in Yosemite Valley around. Its main objective was to reiterate the Route Meltdown, which is one of the world's heaviest Trad rift routes with 8c +. Meltdown was first published by Beth Rodden climbed red point in 2008. Since then, numerous greats like Ron Kauk, Enzo Oddo, Tommy Caldwell and just Carlo Traversi's teeth.
First attempts five years ago
Carlo Traversi first ventured on the Meltdown route in 2013, but didn't have a stab at the time. “In 2013 I got completely shut down. Couldn't figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds, ”he describes his first attempts. In the next year he managed the key point and he was sure that he would soon be able to score points on the route. "I was wrong. It's one thing to climb through a difficult section, it's another to be relaxed enough while you're doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route, ”he says about the attempts in 2014. It wasn't until 2015 that he came close to the ascent until the weather thwarted his plans. The weather wasn't on his side in 2016 and 2017 either.
Everything finally fits together
"This season it all came together. A dry fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley, ”wrote Carlo one day after the successful climb. After two unsuccessful attempts to climb through, in which his foot repeatedly slipped on a central step, he succeeded in the third attempt. Carlo says enthusiastically: "The First Ascent of this route by Beth Rodden is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades."
Video about the first ascent by Beth Rodden
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Credits: Cover picture Bearcam