First Piz Palü Winter Trilogy: Brugger and Waldner make alpine history

Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner have written a new chapter in mountaineering history. On March 8, 2026, the two Austrians climbed all three north face pillars of Piz Palü (3.899 m) in a single winter day. This achievement marks the first winter ascent of all three north face pillars of the famous peak in the Bernina Group.

2.200 meters of climbing in under nine hours

The climbing party starts at 06:30 a.m. at the base of the Bumiller Pillar – after approaching from Diavolezza. Then it's one thing after another:

• Bumiller pillar (900 m, V+, M6): Start at 06:30 a.m. – Main summit (3.899 m) at 09:00 a.m.
• East pillar (600 m, V, M5): Start 09:30 am – East summit (3.880 m) at 11:45 am
• Spinal column (700 m, M3): Start at 13:50 pm – West summit (3.820 m) at 15:29 pm

The total time is 8 hours, 59 minutes, and 26 seconds. The actual climbing time is only 6 hours and 25 minutes. In total, Brugger and Waldner cover 2.200 meters of climbing and 2.500 meters of elevation gain. They each descend on foot via the normal route.

While other climbing teams had already combined the three pillars in the summer, no one had yet managed to climb all three north face pillars of Piz Palü in a single day during the winter.

Good conditions for a demanding project

Winter ascents of the north face pillars of Piz Palü are rare. Snow and ice make conditions significantly more challenging than in summer. However, on March 8th, conditions were favorable: stable weather, hardly any wind, and mostly good snow conditions provided the perfect setting for this daring project.

A climbing team with an impressive track record

Brugger (Telfs) and Waldner (Innsbruck) have been climbing together for many years. Their list of joint achievements is long:

• 2022: First ascent of Shauè Sar (6.653 m) in the Karakoram
• 2024: Fastest winter ascent of the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn north face
• April 2025: First Valsertal North Face Trilogy – Fußstein, Schrammacher and Sagwand in 11 hours and 50 minutes

Both also set standards in solo climbing. Just one week before the Valsertal Trilogy, Brugger, together with Nicolas Hojac, completed the North Face Trilogy of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in 15 hours and 30 minutes. Waldner reached another milestone in the autumn of 2025 with the first ascent of Kimshung (6.781 m) in Nepal.

Piz Palü: One of the most beautiful backdrops in the Alps

Piz Palü in the Bernina Range (Switzerland) is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps. Its three summits and three symmetrically arranged north face pillars make it one of the most famous destinations in the high mountains. With this winter trilogy, the mountain once again comes into focus for the alpine community.

With this achievement, Brugger and Waldner consistently continue their remarkable series of north face enchainements.

That might interest you

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Credits: Cover photo: Lukas Waldner