The two Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori triumphed on the summit of Cerro Chaltén—better known as Fitz Roy—on September 7. At 14:30 p.m., they announced the first winter ascent of the majestic 3.405-meter-high mountain via the Casarotto route, just shortly after Colin Haley's first winter solo on the neighboring Cerro Torre.
Just the two of us – Marco and I – are pursuing this crazy idea of climbing Fitz Roy in winter via its most elegant route.
Matteo Della Bordella
The imposing Fitz Roy
The Cerro Chaltén or Monte Fitz Roy rises on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located in the southern Patagonian Ice Field near El ChalténThe Argentinian Francisco Moreno named the mountain "Fitz Roy" in honor of Robert FitzRoy, who mapped large parts of the Patagonian coast. It was first climbed in 1952 by the Frenchmen Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.
Fitz Roy is an extreme challenge for climbers, and the famous Fitz Roy Traverse is considered one of the toughest alpine challenges in the world. In 1979, the Italian Renato Casarotto the Goretta Pillar – one of the most difficult alpine routes in Patagonia – solo.
Icy winds and frozen cracks: The Patagonian winter
The Goretta Pillar follows the North Pillar of Cerro Chaltén. The line consists of 35 pitches, is 1.250 meters high, and includes grades up to 5.11b. In summer, it's an alpine challenge; in winter, Patagonian winds, sleet-filled cracks, and very short periods of good weather make the Goretta Pillar a true endurance test. Winter in Patagonia is unforgiving; it's extremely cold and there's no outside support.
For the Italian team, it was the very first winter expedition in Patagonia. Matteo Della Bordella Although he had gained some experience on Cerro Chaltén with five ascents, he did not know what to expect on a winter expedition.
Vision becomes reality
On August 5, Della Bordella and Majori arrived in El Chaltén, and just two days later, they sensed their first opportunity. They actually made it up the first half of the imposing pillar before strong winds forced them to retreat. The window of good weather was simply too short. Della Bordella speaks of "cold, fatigue, and absolute solitude, which was simultaneously exhilarating."
The next hurdle for the rope team was patience, as the weather wouldn't allow another attempt until the end of August. It took almost a month before the two Italians reached the base of the pillar again. On September 5, they mastered the first mixed pitches and set up their bivouac at Bloque Empotrado. The following day, they tackled the steep pillar and spent the night on an exposed snowfield. Finally, on September 7, the moment had come: Overjoyed, they reached the summit of Fitz Roy and embraced each other.
I'm writing words that aren't mine, because I swear I don't have any yet. Thank you isn't enough!
Marco Majori on Instagram
In three days, the two alpinists made history in Patagonia. Even in summer, the endless cracks of Fitz Roy are a real challenge. Tackling them in winter is an impressive feat.
You might be interested in:
- Colin Haley climbs Goretta pillars on Fitz Roy solo alpine style
- Crazy ski runs in Patagonia | Film tip «Painting the Mountains»
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Credits: Cover photo: Matteo Della Bordella