The Italian alpinists Mattia Sandionigi and Pietro Saggiante (Gruppo Alpinistico Gamma Lecco), together with Sandro Maranetto, were able to open a new route on the Siula Grande (6.344 m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes.
The Gamma Route – “Through the Trout”
The route runs for more than 700 meters along the eastern pillar. It bears the name “Via Gamma – Attraverso la Trucha” (“Gamma Route – Through the Trout”). Technically, it is a mix of challenging free climbing, mixed terrain, and steep ice sections. The difficulties are described with 7b (obl. 6c+), AI5 and RS3+ assessed, and the first ascent was made in pure alpine style without external support.
After the six-hour approach to base camp and acclimatization on Nevado Vallunaraju (5.700 m), the team spent a total of four days on the mountain: one day for the approach, and three days on the wall.
Four days in changing conditions
The weather made conditions difficult for the expedition. After an initially stable period, snowfall and ice made climbing the upper sections of the face too dangerous. Therefore, the climbers abandoned their attempt on the main summit of Siula Grande and ended their route on the summit of the east pillar. This decision, however, also aligned with their original goal of establishing a new line through the east pillar.
Cracks, limestone slabs and ice channels on one of the most renowned peaks of the Andes
The route follows a logical line, ascending continuously over cracks, limestone slabs, and ice gullies. The most difficult rock pitches were led by Pietro Saggiante, the most demanding ice and mixed sections by Sandro Maranetto. Mattia Sandionigi played a central role in the organization, logistics, and execution of the ascent. A defining moment was the second bivouac, which the climbers spent sitting upright on a narrow ledge where a tent could not be pitched. The opening of the Via Gamma enriches one of the most prestigious peaks in the Andes with a technically significant new route.
Legendary alpine scenery, historical significance
Siula Grande occupies a special place in the history of mountaineering, as the mountain is closely associated with Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, whose dramatic survival story from 1985 was made famous by the successful book "Touching the Void" became world-famous. The new route presented here is located on a different side of the mountain than the one where the events described in the book took place, but the Italian team also experienced the same uncompromising and unpredictable nature of high-altitude mountaineering in the Andes. On the last day of their expedition, the climbers witnessed the collapse of a hanging serac above the glacier below – an area they had traversed several times during the expedition.
Meaning of the name
The name "Via Gamma" is a tribute to the Gruppo Alpinistico Gamma LeccoThis club has been a cornerstone of Lecco's climbing tradition for more than fifty years. The subtitle “Attraverso la Trucha” ("Through the Trout") refers to the numerous trout the team caught in the lakes below the wall during the expedition. At the same time, it alludes to the legendary Dolomite route. “Attraverso il Pesce” (“Through the fish”) at the Marmolada.
First ascent with a comprehensive and well-thought-out alpine approach
The ascent of the Gamma Route embodies an alpinistic approach based on independence, sound decision-making, adaptability to changing mountain conditions, and the pursuit of new discoveries. These are qualities that still characterize the most significant modern first ascents in the world's high mountains.
That might interest you
- Maud Vanpoulle successfully completes the difficult big wall route "Eternal Flame" in the Karakoram Mountains
- First ascent of the west face of Tahu Rutum: “The Leopard of Higher Ground”
+ + +