From July 29 to 31, 2024, Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrügg were the first rope team to cross the ten peaks of Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, Rottalhorn, Louwihorn, Gletscherhorn, Äbni Flue, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn, Zuckerstock and Breithorn in the Bernese Alps in 37 hours and 5 minutes non-stop, making alpine history. A superlative high-alpine border crossing, where 7000 meters of altitude and 65 kilometers were not the only challenges.
To cross these ten peaks from Grindelwald to Fafleralp in the Lötschental, the Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrugg 37 hours and 5 minutes. For other climbers this would be a 9 to 10 day endeavor.
The first part of the tour of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau is very familiar to the two Bernese, as they already climbed there in summer 2022. set a new speed recordBut this time it had to be done at night in total darkness, which is much more difficult and takes more time.
Adventurous terrain
The two started on July 29th at 14:55 p.m. in Grindelwald Grund so that they could stand on the summit of the Jungfrau at sunrise and start the adventurous second part of the crossing at first light.
The second part of the crossing has sections that are only used very rarely and are therefore also adventurous terrain. Snow-covered ridges, open mountain crevasses, softened snow and partially brittle rocks make it difficult to progress. The route is not always obvious and demands everything from both of them.
Exploring the limits of what is possible
Hojac and Zurbrügg are very experienced mountaineers who have already completed a number of joint projects in the field of speed mountaineering. With this project they wanted to find out what was possible in a single push without sleep. Tiredness was their biggest enemy, along with the heat of the day, and then there was the stress of the altitude.
Being in the crash site for over 30 hours is a huge mental challenge.
There was only a break of around 20-30 minutes at the Jungfraujoch and on the Mittaghorn. Otherwise they were constantly on the move.
Longest high alpine non-stop crossing of the Alps?
This high alpine crossing is probably the longest of its kind that has ever been done in the Alps in one push. If you compare the figures with the well-known Spaghetti Tour near Zermatt, where you can cross 18 4000m peaks in one go, you only get 30 kilometers and 4400 meters of altitude.
Even a Patrouille de Glacier, which is done on skis in winter, only covers 4400 meters in altitude and 58 kilometers. Only the crossing of the entire Wetterstein ridge comes to 70 kilometers and 7000 meters in altitude. This is, however, significantly lower, with the highest point on the Zugspitze (2962 m).
Success on the second attempt
This was not the first attempt by Hojac and Zurbrügg to complete this project. They had already made an attempt in the summer of 2023 and had to abandon it after the Mönch. The zero degree limit was then at over 5000m and the snow no longer froze at night.
This time too, it was quite warm with a zero degree limit at 4700m, but the sometimes strong wind cooled the ridges and froze the snow.
On the way, the two had eaten in huts such as Ostegg and Mittellegi. They had previously set up a depot in the Jungfraujoch and a support team was on the Mittaghorn that brought them water and food for the remaining 13 hours.
Getting through the night again was not easy, as the mental fatigue was triggered even more. After a long descent from the last summit, Hojac and Zurbrügg reached the Fafleralp early in the morning of July 31st at 04:00.
The project was an absolute test of boundaries with an uncertain outcome, and there were always opportunities to abandon it. The fact that everything worked out in the end is not a given. Despite the sporting achievement, her main goal was to return healthy.
Facts about the exceedance
- Distance: 65.03 km
- Number of peaks: 10
- Altitude: 7029
- Time required: 37:05:33
- Style: Supported
- Calories consumed: 19572 kcal
That might interest you
- Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour
- In 44 days on all 48 Swiss 4000m peaks
- Speed records in alpinism: why, why, why?
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Credits: Text and Cover Photo: Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrugg