The Grigri, Grigri + and Neox belay devices from Petzl can be used to secure a person in lead and second climbing on multi-pitch routes. In this article, we explain how this works and what you need to pay attention to.
Safety note
1. Read the instructions for use of the products covered in this Tech Tip carefully before consulting this article. To understand this article, you must first have a clear understanding of the information provided in the instructions for use.
2. Mastering these techniques requires appropriate education and special training. Check with a professional whether you are able to repeat the procedure safely on your own before attempting it on your own.
3. We give examples of the techniques related to your activity. There may be other techniques not described here.
There is no guarantee that the following information is correct. Use of this technology is at your own risk.
In difficult multi-pitch routes, the use of a single rope offers more comfort and easier rope handling than half ropes. In addition, if the grigri, grigri + or Neox used, a leader who has to boulder individual key sections can be secured more easily. When securing in lead or second climbing on multi-pitch routes with Grigri, Grigri + or Neox, there are a few points to consider.
Belaying a climber in lead climbing during multi-pitch climbing
When securing a person in lead climbing Multi-pitch climbing The belaying technique is identical to that used in a climbing garden. It is important to redirect the climbing rope before starting to climb. While in the classic Sport climbing While in a climbing garden the dynamics of belaying are possible through the movement of the person belaying, body-dynamic belaying is only possible to a limited extent on a multi-pitch route. This naturally depends on the condition of the belay station.
The use of a long belay sling or a similar connection between the belay station and the belayer offers the belayer greater freedom of movement.
Belaying a second climber with Grigri/Neox
Pay attention to the position of the Grigri or Neox: blocking the device or the clamping mechanism could cancel out the braking effect.
When belaying a second in multi-pitch climbing with the Grigri or Neox, two techniques can be used: belaying with the device at the belay station or belaying with the device at the belayer and passing the rope through at a redirection point.
In both cases, the rope must be installed in the device in the same direction, respecting the marking that indicates the position of the person climbing. The belayer must always hold the brake rope in his hand.
The belaying person must always hold the brake rope in his hand.
Benefits
- Arresting the fall by shifting the body of the securing person
- The same safety grips as when belaying in top rope
Disadvantages
- In the event of a serious fall or a large difference in weight between the belayer and the climber, the belayer may be thrown into the anchor point
- Higher load on the securing point due to the pulley effect
Benefits
- Independence of the securing person from the security system
- Less stress on the securing point
Disadvantages
- No arrest of the fall by the body shift of the belaying person
- Higher risk of unintentional pressing of the cam by the rock or other elements of the belay station
- Higher risk of rope slippage if the belayer does not hold the brake rope
Make sure that the device is not obstructed and that nothing is pressing against the clamping mechanism, otherwise the rope will become unblocked.
The clamping mechanism must not be obstructed.
The belayer must always hold the brake rope firmly, even while the climber is resting.
Attention, the following applies to both the NEOX and the GRIGRI and GRIGRI +: If thin and new ropes are not held in place, they will slip through the device under their own weight and create a slack rope that is dangerous for the climber. This happens particularly quickly when the belay device is installed at the belay station.
If the belayer needs to have both hands free, he or she can tie a blocking knot in the brake rope.
Anyone who wants to belay on multi-pitch routes with the Grigri or Neox can only do so using a single rope. For abseiling, the single rope must either be of the necessary length or a tagline must be used. On the subject Tagline we refer to a separate article.
Advantages and disadvantages of a single rope in multi-pitch climbing
Benefits
- Enables the use of a Grigri (increased safety comfort, easy arrest and securing of a fall).
- Easier handling of the rope at the belay station.
Disadvantages
- No redundancy in case of danger of rope cutting in rugged terrain, in case of a fall over an edge or similar.
- Abseiling and exit more complicated.
All of these points must be taken into account so that the rope team can select the right equipment for the planned route. The use of a single rope on a multi-pitch route should be reserved for experienced climbers to check out difficult pitches. In multi-pitch routes with complex routes and sharp-edged rocks, the use of half ropes is preferable.
Petzl Tech Tips
On the Petzl website you will find a wealth of technical advice on sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, mountaineering, ski touring and ice climbing. You can find the tech tips sorted by activity here.
That might interest you
- Petzl Spirit: the best quickdraws for sport climbing?
- Headlamp with an unbelievable 1500 lumens in the test | Petzl Nao RL
- More freedom of movement when setting up a stand: the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: This content was published based on the Tech Tip from Petzl. More Tech Tips can be found on www.petzl.com