Scottish climber Will Bosi achieves the most difficult first ascent of his career: Realm of Tor'ment in Raven Tor, Great Britain. Bosi suggests a difficulty grade of 9A for the boulder.
The exceptional Scottish climber Will Bosi with the first ascent of the boulder Realm of Torment im Raven gate (Peak District, Great Britain). With a proposed grade of 9A, the line is one of the world's most difficult bouldering problems and is the most challenging project in Bosi's career to date..
Long-term project on iconic rock
Bosi began work on «Realm of Tor'ment» in spring 2023. The line, previously known as «Burden of Nightmares», in reference to Burden of Dreams, quickly became his longest and most intensive bouldering project. He achieved the first ascent after numerous sessions and years of fine-tuning his technique and endurance.
I think this move alone is in the 8B+ range
Will Bosi
Will Bosi climbing the 9A boulder Spots of Time
8B+ Single move and complex footwork
The boulder starts with a prominent tufa pinch for the left hand and a ledge for the right hand. This is followed by power-intensive, sustained moves on two holes, where the crux begins: a difficult move to a sharp underhand ledge, followed by complex footwork. This is followed by the most difficult move, a long and dynamic move to the left to a small, flat, and poor ledge. "I think this move alone is in the 8B+ range," explains Bosi. "This is followed by another long splat with the right hand high up to a good flake."
Only one to climb five 9A boulders
With "Realm of Tor'ment," Will Bosi becomes the first climber to climb five boulders at grade 9A (V17). The route is considered one of the most significant contributions to British climbing history and underscores the international relevance of the Peak District as a bouldering area. Although Bosi classifies the grade as "more on the lower end of 9A," it remains to be seen how repeat climbers will rate the difficulty.
I'm curious to hear what future repeaters of the line think.
Will Bosi
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Credits: Cover picture Band of Birds