Some swear by training plans, others prefer to improve by spending as much time on the wall as possible. One myth is particularly persistent: If you simply climb a lot, you'll get stronger faster, even without targeted training.
10.000 hours of practice – according to the so-called Gladwell formula, that's roughly how much time it takes for someone to be considered an expert in a particular field. Although Gladwell and his team studied female violinists, the study's model can also be applied to climbing – as can the criticisms of it.
Quality beats quantity
One of the main criticisms of the Gladwell formula is that not every hour of practice (or in our case, training) is worth the same amount. In violin playing, as in climbing, quality beats quantity.
“Just go climbing more” is lazy advice.
Lattice training
So, if you regularly go to the wall with clear goals and work on your own technique, you can get more out of a shorter session than someone who tires themselves out with long training sessions – at least that’s what the experts at Latex.
This logic applies not only to a training day in the gym or on the rock, but to every single route. Those who invest fewer, but more deliberate attempts achieve the greatest learning effect – similar to athletes in competition.
Video: targeted training & tips for better climbing
In the video from Lattice Training you will learn why you still need strength training away from the wall to see the fastest possible success in climbing, and which other factors play a role.
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Credits cover photo: Lattice training