The first bouldering world cup of the season in the sold-out arena in Meiringen was decided by the Czech Adam Ondra and the Slovenian Janja Garnbret. Petra Klingler took fifth place in Meiringen with a solid performance. Neither Germany nor Austria made it to the final last weekend.
The first Bouldering World Cup of the season was characterized by a strong starting field. Everything that has rank and name took part in the competition. Once again it was noticeable how dominant the climbing nation Japan was. In the men's final, four of the six athletes were from the Asian country, with one other athlete, Jongwon Chon, from Korea. Adam Ondra joked in the interview before the final: "At least one European made it to the final."
An unknown face made it to the final
Between all the familiar faces of the finals, an unknown joined: Oceana Mackenzie from Australia. The 16-year-old reached the final with three tops and finished sixth with just one top.
Riss route made the decision for the men
Over the past year, critical voices have repeatedly been heard regarding the route style. With dynamic moves and jumps, this distances itself more and more from “classic” rock climbing. The boulders in Meiringen, on the other hand, offered a good mix of news school and old school. The last boulder in the final was even a classic crack through and through. While the Japanese athletes are always solid in the new style of bouldering, they dropped in rows in the Riss boulder. Adam Ondra came last on the mat and flashed the boulder. Rumor has it he said after the final that the crack was only a 6a boulder if you can climb a crack. Fortunately, Adam Ondra has been traveling in the United States for a long time and is accordingly well versed in this terrain. With the flash ascent of the last final boulder, Adam Ondra won the first World Cup of the season.
Adam Ondra at the decisive boulder of the final
Ranking at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen
Impressions of the Boulder World Cup 2019 in Meiringen
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Credits: Picture Gallery Diego Schläppi / Haslital Mountain Festival