Shinichiro Nomura gets the first ascent of Boulder Gakido (8c +). The 25-year-old Japanese solves one of Japan's most difficult problems. In the past 20 years, numerous climbing greats had tried the line in Tohoku and had bitten their teeth.
With his First Ascent from Gakido (8c +) within just three sessions underlines the Japanese bouldering professional Shinichiro Nomura once again in top form. For the first time, at the end of January 2021, he put his hand to the project, which for years had the nimbus of not being climbable. He returned to Tohoku more than a year later and was able to climb the boulder in two sessions.
Get stronger and come back
On his first attempt in 2021, Shinichiro Nomura still thought the boulder was hardly solvable. The grips seemed too bad and the positioning too complex. At the same time, the 25-year-old was convinced that the problem could be solved with the appropriate effort. "I had the impression that if I worked hard, one day I would be able to find the right positions and resolve the moves."
"I had the impression that if I worked hard, one day I would be able to find the right positions and resolve the moves."
Shinichiro Nomura
Shinichiro Nomura chose the strategy of growing on other difficult boulders and then coming back stronger. Said and done. Between January 2021 and March 2022, the Japanese climbed in his home country Oxalis (8b +), and Geisha slot (8b +), Meikyoshisui (8b +), rokudo (8c) Tokyo (8b +), Prethem (8b +), P (8b +), Mandrake (8c) Yokuto (8b +), hanna (8c) as well Loca (8c, FA).
Video: Shinichiro Nomura climbs Yokuto (8b +)
The key move
The numerous difficult boulders not only increased his tick list, but also increased his strength and self-confidence. As Shinichiro Nomura on March 17th this year in the bouldering area Tohoku returned, the individual moves no longer seemed quite so impossible. "I felt like I could hold the grips better," he says.
"I'm really glad that I was able to climb this insanely cool project for the first time."
Shinichiro Nomura
Nevertheless, he still couldn't make the third move. After another departure, he had almost given up, Shinichiro Nomura suddenly found the right body position to be able to resolve the ominous key movement.
Three days later he returned again - the movement sequences still internalized. After only three attempts, Shinichiro Nomura was on top of the block, who had so stubbornly resisted an inspection. "I'm really happy that I was able to climb this incredibly cool project for the first time," says the 25-year-old.
In terms of difficulty, he suggests 8c+. He believes that there are many variations to climb the line. "But given that it took over 20 years for the line to be liberated, I would argue for 8c+."
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Credits: Cover picture Shinichiro Nomura