Incredible perseverance: Matt Fultz repeats Big Z (8C+)

Matt Fultz secures the second ascent of the 8C+ Boulder Big Z in Lake Tahoe. He invested a good thirty sessions spread over three years into Shawn Raboutou's test piece from 2020.

"I'm so happy! What a process and what a personal success for me,” says happily Matt Fultz after his commission of Big Z (8C+). Shawn Raboutou's test piece in Lake Tahoe is not only the most difficult boulder he has ever climbed, but also the most intensive in terms of the process from planning to the final climb.

Honestly, this was the first time I truly understood that a problem was bigger and more significant than just the number associated with it.

Matt Fultz

Video: Matt Fultz on the second ascent of Big Z

Through deep doubts and frustration to success

“This boulder made me doubt myself and demanded so much more from me than I ever thought I could give.” He stopped believing in himself, says Matt Fultz.

I had serious imposter syndrome when people called me a “professional climber.”

Matt Fultz

Matt Fultz isn't sure if this feeling of feeling inadequate despite his success will go away with the ascent of Big Z. “However, I know that I am very grateful for this experience and the frustrations that allowed me to learn more about myself.”

Big Z: Three years, 30 sessions

The American has tried Big Z repeatedly over the past three years. In the first ten sessions the line felt impossible.

I was too tall to get into the right positions and my fingers didn't fit into the cracks.

Matt Fultz

He only kept trying because he knew it would be good for him to work on his weaknesses. “At some point I developed a knee clamp beta with which I was able to decipher the middle crux.” At the same time, the kneebar made the transition to the next moves massively more difficult.

After about 20 more sessions, I made it to the top on the first attempt of the day full of confidence.

Matt Fultz

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Matt Fultz

News

Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”

9b first ascent: Seb Bouin releases his project Les Rois du Lithium - an endurance hammer with a 20 meter finish that has it all.

SAC Youth Climbing Cup Bouldering Baden | Live stream

This Saturday, April 27th, the SAC Youth Climbing Cup in bouldering will take place in Bouba Baden. Finals are available in the live stream.

Michaela Kiersch in the form of her life

Michaela Kiersch wins in Catalonia. In addition to difficult routes, she struggled above all with the high demands placed on herself.

James Pearson: “That was my craziest highball”

Hard at the limit: James Pearson repeats the infamous highball 29 dots and comes shockingly close to the limit.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Seb Bouin climbs new 9b with a “20 meter hardcore finish”

9b first ascent: Seb Bouin releases his project Les Rois du Lithium - an endurance hammer with a 20 meter finish that has it all.

SAC Youth Climbing Cup Bouldering Baden | Live stream

This Saturday, April 27th, the SAC Youth Climbing Cup in bouldering will take place in Bouba Baden. Finals are available in the live stream.

Michaela Kiersch in the form of her life

Michaela Kiersch wins in Catalonia. In addition to difficult routes, she struggled above all with the high demands placed on herself.