Matt Fultz secures the first repeat of Vecchio Leone sit (8C+) in Brione. It's the seventh boulder of this grade for the strong American, but the first time he's cracked such a difficult problem outside of the States.
If you look at his performance curve over the past few years, the American professional climber is Matt Fultz definitely a 9A candidate: in 2020 he combined three 8C boulders and one boulder rated 8C+ in his ticklist. In the first half of 2021, four 8C's and three 8C+ lines (Sleepwalker, Grand Illusion, Creature from the Black Lagoon) were added. In the summer of 2022, among other things, the first ascent of Brace for the cure (8C +) and recently in Brione the first repetition of Vecchio Leone sit (8C+)
Matt Fultz climbs Vecchio Leone sit (8C+) in Brione
The Generations Project
Vecchio Leone (8B) is one of Brione's great classics. First climbed in the early 2000s by bouldering pioneer Bernd Zangerl, the boulder is still considered a real touchstone today. In November 2022, Aidan Roberts opened the 8C+ rated sit start version, leaving the climbing world with an even greater challenge.
«I was drawn to Vecchio Leone Sit by its beautiful setting, its incredible quality and its movements.»
Matt Fultz
It took Matt Fultz eight sessions to secure the first rep of Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+). The strong American also had to endure painful moments, as the following video shows.
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Credits: Cover picture Matt Fultz