Matt Fultz repeats Vecchio Leone sit (8C+)

Matt Fultz secures the first repeat of Vecchio Leone sit (8C+) in Brione. It's the seventh boulder of this grade for the strong American, but the first time he's cracked such a difficult problem outside of the States.

If you look at his performance curve over the past few years, the American professional climber is Matt Fultz definitely a 9A candidate: in 2020 he combined three 8C boulders and one boulder rated 8C+ in his ticklist. In the first half of 2021, four 8C's and three 8C+ lines (Sleepwalker, Grand Illusion, Creature from the Black Lagoon) were added. In the summer of 2022, among other things, the first ascent of Brace for the cure (8C +) and recently in Brione the first repetition of Vecchio Leone sit (8C+)

Matt Fultz climbs Vecchio Leone sit (8C+) in Brione

The Generations Project

Vecchio Leone (8B) is one of Brione's great classics. First climbed in the early 2000s by bouldering pioneer Bernd Zangerl, the boulder is still considered a real touchstone today. In November 2022, Aidan Roberts opened the 8C+ rated sit start version, leaving the climbing world with an even greater challenge.

«I was drawn to Vecchio Leone Sit by its beautiful setting, its incredible quality and its movements.»

Matt Fultz

It took Matt Fultz eight sessions to secure the first rep of Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+). The strong American also had to endure painful moments, as the following video shows.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Matt Fultz

News

Adam Ondra's ride on the wave of success

Successful climbing trip: After climbing Bon Voyage, Adam Ondra scores more hard routes on the way home.

Watch Reel Rock Episode Sleeping Lion with Chris Sharma for free

Accompany Chris Sharma in his mega project Sleeping Lion from the countless attempts at project planning to the final implementation.

Next Level: This is how you crack the 7th degree

Get ahead where there are a lot of climbers queuing: With these professional tips you can make the jump to the 7th degree.

Stefano Ghisolfi climbs the legendary Action Directe (9a) | Video

First 9a in the world: With Action Directe, Stefano Ghisolfi repeated one of the most iconic lines in the world last fall.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Adam Ondra's ride on the wave of success

Successful climbing trip: After climbing Bon Voyage, Adam Ondra scores more hard routes on the way home.

Watch Reel Rock Episode Sleeping Lion with Chris Sharma for free

Accompany Chris Sharma in his mega project Sleeping Lion from the countless attempts at project planning to the final implementation.

Next Level: This is how you crack the 7th degree

Get ahead where there are a lot of climbers queuing: With these professional tips you can make the jump to the 7th degree.