Adam Ondra has achieved the first repeat of Elias Iagnemma's "Exodia" (9A+) in Val Pellice, Italy. The exceptional Czech climber considers the grade 9A more appropriate – likely also because he only needed four days for the route, compared to 212 days for the first ascensionists.
Ondra's ascent of "Exodia" is only the second ascent of the only boulder problem ever considered to be graded 9A+. Shortly after his repeat, the 33-year-old Czech climber suggested downgrading it to 9A. Ondra describes the line as "absolutely my style"—requiring many heel hooks, perfect body positioning, and extremely good core stability.
I've probably never been in such good shape for a boulder problem like "Exodia".
Adam Ondra
Elias Iagnemma: more than 200 days for the first ascent of “Exodia”
The Italian had already... in June 2021 Iagnemma first accepted the project in Val Pellice near Piedmont, which originally ChristianCore had discovered. Four years and 212 project days From then on, resources flowed into the route until the first ascent in November 2025. This enormous effort was also the reason why Iagnemma was the first climber ever to suggest the grade 9A+ for "Exodia". The relatively long boulder problem consists of two parts, which the first ascensionist graded 8B+ and 8C+.
Adam Ondra, currently probably in the form of his life, needed only four days to repeat "Exodia". He did climb the same sequence as Iagnemma, but used some holds more as crimps than as pinches. Due to his height, Ondra could also forgo a foot swing and instead pull from a toehook to the next hold.
"I totally respect Elias's suggestion": why Ondra still downplays it
Grades for first ascents are always provisional – this is especially true when someone is potentially venturing into new territory in terms of difficulty. Adam Ondra agrees: "I totally respect Elias's suggestion of 9A+," he wrote on Instagram. He pointed out that Iagnemma has repeated numerous 8C+ boulders and also two 9As., including “Burden of Dreams”. “I would have done the same if I had worked on the production line for 212 days,” said Ondra.
At the same time, the Czech climber maintains his suggestion to downgrade the boulder. He himself has already repeated a 9A – “Soudain Seul”, the sit start of the famous “Big Island” in Fontainebleau. Ondra considers “Exodia” harder, but in his view, both boulders are in the 9A range.
I think the boulder is a 9A – but I won't say where it falls on the 9A spectrum. To me, "Exodia" feels similarly difficult to "Alphane" or "Mount Doom," but it might just be totally my style.
Adam Ondra
Reviews always remain subjective.
Ondra also acknowledges that personal preference often plays a significant role in downgrading routes. "I wouldn't be surprised if other climbers find 'Exodia' harder than 'Alphane' or 'Mount Doom'," he commented after the ascent. Both are 9A routes that the Czech climber has attempted but not yet completed.
With Ondra's downgrade, the 9A+ grade is off the table for now – but only time will tell where the boulder will ultimately settle. Adam Ondra, for his part, has nothing but praise for Iagnemma's mega-project, regardless of the grade:
"Exodia" is extreme, but also gentle on the skin. The boulder offers good conditions when it gets too warm on other 9As. I don't think the line will be forgotten.
Adam Ondra
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Cover photo credit: Photographer Petr Chodura© Adam Ondra