On Sunday, the Olympic format of the combination (speed, bouldering, lead) experienced its world champion baptism of fire, when the women's and men's competition was held in the Olympiaworld Innsbruck. Slovenian Janja Garnbret and local hero Jakob Schubert won gold. Silver went to Adam Ondra, bronze to Jan Hojer. Austria was in third place with the ladies with Jessica Pilz. Switzerland was ranked 6 with Petra Klingler.
Yesterday, for the first time, a competition was held in the new Olympic format, in which the athletes compete against each other in all three disciplines, lead, speed and bouldering.
The world champion also gets the gold medal in the Olympic format
For the ladies it was Janja Garnbret, who was on top of the podium. In the bouldering discipline the world champion scored four tops in only seven attempts. So she went much better rested in the first round than all competitors. The Korean Sol Sa bouldered surprisingly in second place. Thanks to this placement, she still had chances for the gold medal and the silver medal was sure. Petra Klingler, Japanese girls Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka did not make up ground in bouldering and took fourth, fifth and sixth place respectively. The bronze medal was won by lead world champion Jessica Pilz. Petra Klingler says after the competition in the combined format: "It has not come out quite as I had wished. But it was a lot of fun. For me, it was important to be here to climb this format once in front of an audience and with a view to the next year, I now know what I still have to work on. "
She can hardly believe her luck
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Result of the ladies at a glance
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Sa Sol (KOR)
- Jessica Mushroom (AUT)
- Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
- Miho Nonaka (JPN)
- Petra Klingler (SUI)
Gold in front of home crowd for Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert succeeded in completing the home world championship in Innsbruck perfectly and qualified for the first combination world champion. Schubert was either first or second in each round and won the competition confidently. Silver and bronze went to Adam Ondra (CZE) and Jan Hojer (GER). As with the ladies, the Japanese went out of hand in the combination.
Overview of the men's results
- Jakob Schubert (AUT)
- Adam Ondra (CZE)
- Jan Hojer (GER)
- Kai Harada (JPN)
- Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
- Kokoro Fujii (JPN)
World Cup balance sheet from Swiss point of view
After ten intense competition days, the balance of the SAC Swiss Climbing Team is quite positive. All selected athletes confirmed their progress, not only in their professional discipline. Several personal bests were achieved. With regard to Tokyo 2020, it turned out that the various measures paid off in particular during the last year and that keeping up with the best in the world in combination of all three disciplines is absolutely possible and that the chosen path is the right one. An important element is undoubtedly the new national performance center in Biel, where the athletes can be challenged and promoted at far higher training frequencies.
With the three final participations of Sascha Lehmann in lead climbing and Petra Klingler in bouldering and the combination, Switzerland also achieved the corresponding presence at the outstandingly accented and attended by a large audience final days.
Higlights of the Combined Format (Olympic)
Video replay of the competition in the combined Olympic format
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Credits: Cover picture Austria Climbing