Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret are at the top of the podium at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Innsbruck. In a thrilling final, the two experienced riders prevailed against their competitors.
The final results of the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck are not particularly surprising per se: Among the men, Jakob Schubert in Alex Megos and Toby Roberts. The winner in the women’s category is Janja Garnbret in Ai Mori and Chaehyun SeoAnd yet the two finals were hard to beat in terms of excitement.
Climbing here at home is always special, and this route today was extra special because it was such a crazy battle in the upper half.
Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert: Delivered under pressure
In the men's race, Tomoa Narasaki opened the final, but fell relatively early (28+). It quickly became clear, however, that the passage where he fell out was anything but easy. Jonas Utelli, who was able to compete in his first World Cup final in Innsbruck, also only made a little progress (29). The same goes for the Japanese lead specialist Taisei Homma (29).
The cheers of the 3000 spectators were all the louder when Alex Megos climbed the section seemingly effortlessly and set the benchmark to beat with 42+. The Briton Toby Roberts, known for his incredible grit and almost limitless stamina, came pretty close. He flew off at 41+.
Now only Jakob Schubert could challenge the German for the gold medal. And once again the Austrian delivered on point. Cheered on by the home crowd, he fought against the pump, climbed over Megos' best mark and only dropped down at 45. The 33-year-old won his 21st World Cup gold medal in the lead in Innsbruck.
It was incredibly loud when I made that move, and I knew immediately that this was probably the win.
Jakob Schubert
Results Men IFSC Lead World Cup Innsbruck 2024
- Jacob Schubert (45)
- Alex Megos (42+)
- Toby Roberts (41+)
- Colin Duffy (40+)
- Shuta Tanaka (34+)
- Taisei Homma (29)
- Jonas Utelli (29)
- Tomoa Narasaki (28+)
The decision is made at the very end
As with the men, the route setting team also succeeded in bolting a lead route for the women, which, due to its difficulty, ensured the necessary selection, was varied to climb and offered the audience a good show.
The crucial point of the route was the jump between holds 26 and 28. This dynamo was the end of the line for five finalists: Yuetong Gzhang, Mattea Pötzi, Anastasia Sanders, Aleksandra Totkova and Jessica Pilz.
Chaehyun Seo was the first athlete to overcome the hurdle. She set a new record of 36 that was hard to beat.
Ai Mori hesitated at the crux like many athletes before her. However, the Japanese woman found a solution that worked for her by jumping onto the first of the two target holds of the Dyno with both hands. Euphoric about this interim success, she climbed the rest of the route at a brisk pace and was the first athlete in the final to reach the top.
Now only one athlete could displace her from the throne: Janja Garnbret. Like Schubert in the men's competition, the Slovenian is also well known for being able to deliver on time. And that's exactly what she did, but not without having to fight hard.
Every single victory means a lot to me. I don't take anything for granted, I'm always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every time
Janja Garnbret
She shook a lot and took her time in the upper section just before the top to collect herself and reposition her feet for the last difficult move. In the last seconds of the time limit she clipped the redirector and secured another World Cup victory.
This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and rest a bit and then train until Paris 2024!
Janja Garnbret
Results Women IFSC Lead World Cup Innsbruck 2024
- Janja Garnbret (Top)
- Ai Mori (Top)
- Chaehyun Seo (36)
- Jessica Mushroom (22+)
- Aleksandra Totkova (22+)
- Anastasia Sanders (22+)
- Mattea Poetzi (22+)
- Yuetong Zhang (21+)
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Credits: Cover picture Lena Drapella