The Belgian Anak Verhoeven is one of the strongest climbers in the world. In this article, the 26-year-old professional climber shares five personal tips for a successful red point ascent on the rock.
First women's ascent by Joe Mama (9a +), red point ascent of No pain, no gain (9a +), two 9a routes with an hour break: There are many headlines that underline why Anak Verhoeven on the rock is one of the strongest female climbers in the world. In this article, she reveals what her recipe for success is in difficult red point ascents and what strategies she uses to approach her projects.
How Anak Verhoeven tackles red dot projects on rock:
- In training: learn to fight the pump
- On the rock: optimize and memorize movements
- When warming up: Develop a personal routine
- During an attempt: Balance between focused and relaxed
- Strategies while climbing: Act with foresight
1. Training: Learn to fight against the pump
Anak Verhoeven mainly prepares for her sport climbing routes on the rock with indoor lead sessions. After a thorough warm-up, she climbs several grade eight routes.
To increase the training effect, she climbs the routes two or more times without resting in between. She also builds in additional challenges, for example by blocking holds or deliberately letting her feet come with every movement.
"The most important aspect of such sessions is the ability to fight the pump - physically and mentally."
Anak Verhoeven
In addition, the 26-year-old does regular strength training sessions, during which she focuses on hangboarding, pull-ups and strengthening her core. After one or two days of training, she usually takes a rest day. This includes balance exercises, mobility and stretching.
2. On the rock: optimize and memorize movements
The actual process of red point climbing begins on the rock. The first step is to find out whether all movements of the selected line are possible at all. "In this phase you often spend hours on the wall and only make a few meters of progress, sometimes none at all," says Anak Verhoeven.
Once all the individual moves have been made, the task is to optimize the beta and memorize all the movement sequences.
«When memorizing the movements, no detail should be left out. I don't attempt a redpoint ascent until I have enough confidence in my methods."
Anak Verhoeven
3. Warm up: Develop a personal routine
An intensive warm-up is essential - not only to prevent injuries, but also to get the best out of yourself. "Every body is different and requires a specific warm-up," says Anak Verhoeven.
"By warming up for each session as if you were about to jump into a project afterwards, you become more aware of what your body needs."
Anak Verhoeven
In this way, you also develop a personal warm-up routine, thanks to which you know exactly when you are ready to climb your personal limit.
4. During an experiment: balance between being focused and relaxed
When things are serious, the professional climber tries to be focused and relaxed at the same time. "If I find this balance, I can move in a kind of flow." However, if she tries to control everything, she climbs much too stiffly, which increases the chance of a fall.
"I remind myself that it's "just a route" and it's no big deal if I fall."
Anak Verhoeven
That doesn't mean giving up recklessly during an attempt, though: feeling like she wasted an attempt or not trying hard enough is something the 26-year-old tries to avoid. Thinking about it while climbing is a mental strategy that has often helped her to reactivate all her strength.
"If I still fall, I try to analyze immediately what caused the fall." This allows her to learn from experience and make adjustments the next time I try, for example repositioning my foot or improving my position for cliffs.
5. Strategies while climbing: Act with foresight
On red point attempts, Anak Verhoeven tries to climb as efficiently as possible. A successful strategy for conserving energy, in addition to having a good beta, is to start shaking well before the pump starts.
"I always try to plan one or more moves ahead, especially when I've found a good resting position."
Anak Verhoeven
Even if she always has the end goal - i.e. the ascent - in the back of her mind, she usually concentrates on the next moves while climbing - step by step up to the deflector. "It can be such a satisfying feeling to get through a project," enthuses Anak Verhoeven. With this in mind: Good luck with your projects!
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Credits: Cover picture Anak Verhoeven