Italian climber Giovanni Placci delivers an outstanding performance in Entraygues (France): Within two days he completes three difficult routes – including a rare flash of “San Ku Kai” (8c+).
Two days, three tough lines
On July 17th, Placci first sent "La Moustache Qui Fâche" (9a+), one of the most challenging lines in the sector. He had worked out the route the day before, before finally sending it on his third attempt on the second day of his session. Just a few hours later, he flashed "San Ku Kai" (8c+), a milestone in his outdoor climbing performance to date.
On July 18th, Placci followed up: Despite clear fatigue, he managed to climb "Condé de Choc" (9a). With that, he had ticked off all the established hard movers in the sector within 48 hours.
Competition form meets rock
Entraygues is known for its "competit-style" routes – they demand dynamic movements, precise footwork, and consist of complex sequences. Athletes with a strong competitive background can particularly benefit from this style. Placci confirms this assessment with his ascents:
After my Chamonix stop, I just wanted to spend a few days climbing outdoors. Entraygues is very competitive, so it was perfect for my current form. Flashing San Ku Kai was an incredible experience. I'd never flashed anything so hard before.
Giovanni Placci, statement after the inspections
The Flash of "San Ku Kai" is the standout highlight. Placci also emphasizes that while the split opening with "La Moustache Qui Fâche" wasn't crucial to the Flash, it's still not considered a "Pure Flash." He welcomes open discussion on the matter: "I'm happy if everyone has their own opinion."
Further challenges await
Before Placci left, he took a look at an unclimbed 9b project in the area. The line wasn't the most obvious, but "definitely sick enough" to warrant a return. It's quite possible Entraygues will see him again soon.
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Credits: Crimp.Films