The Czech climber had actually bolted the line back in 2022, but then didn't attempt it again due to the birth of his son. Adam Ondra now proposes a grade of 9b+ for "Huga Chaga," thus giving the Arco climbing area one of its hardest routes to date.
What will we even be thinking about in 2026? Adam Ondra Write? At 33, the Czech climber has achieved pretty much everything currently considered humanly possible in climbing. A brief excerpt: participation in both Olympic Games, the first ascent of "Silence" (9c), 29 routes graded 9b and above, four 8C flashes, and a 9A bouldering climb. – and recently also a repeat of “Exodia”, possibly the world's first 9A+.
“Huga Chaga”: Old project from 2022 finally freed
Now, Ondra's impressive tick list includes his sixth 9b+ first ascent. "Huga Chaga" is located in the Terra Promessa sector, where Ondra climbed "Wonderland" (9b+) in 2022. Stefano Ghisolfi This autumn, when he attempted the latter, Ondra accompanied him to clean up his old project.
I drilled the line in early 2022, a month before our son was born. The project had always been in my mind, but I'd never tried it since.
Adam Ondra
Ondra noticed the four years that had passed since his last time on "Huga Chaga" relatively quickly – but in a good way. He discovered a new beta for the crux of the route, which didn't necessarily make it easier, but definitely cooler and less risky. "Huga Chaga" consists of a severe 9a sequence up to a good knee bar and a 8B+ and an 8A bouldering problem, before continuing with easier moves to the redirect.
Last resort leaf blower: "Would have preferred dry rock"
Ondra certainly didn't lack the right beta or motivation, but the October weather had finally arrived in Arco. Because one tufa rock in particular simply refused to dry, a leaf blower had to be used – held by a climbing friend who hung from the wall for Ondra's ascent.
More rain was forecast for the next few days, so the next available option would not have been until March.
Adam Ondra
Drying out holds in this way is not uncommon, but depending on the rock and the hold's characteristics, it can increase the risk of a break. "The action wasn't in the best style, but it's important for me to emphasize that this tufa is so wide that it absolutely cannot break," Ondra wrote on Instagram.
Images: Crimp Films
Not a Kingline, but hopefully a magnet for top climbers.
Even though Ondra described the ascent as an "absolutely epic battle," the 33-year-old doesn't consider "Huga Chaga" a dream line himself. "It's a good route with a certain charm, but not an absolute king line," said Ondra. "I hope it still makes it onto the radar of future repeat ascenders."
"Huga Chaga" shares only the rest position at the kneebar with the neighboring route "Wonderland" and the final moves with "Solimano" (8a). Ondra describes the two key boulder problems (8B+ and 8A) together as an 8C/+ boulder problem with approximately 15 moves. With a suggested grade of 9b+, it is the hardest line around Arco, tied with Stefano Ghisolfi's. "Excalibur"And believe it or not: It's not yet on Adam Ondra's tick list.
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Credits cover photo: Crimp films