With «Omen Nomen», Filip Schenk has completed a long-standing project in Padaro near Arco. It's a line that has been on his to-do list ever since he started climbing difficult routes.
An indescribable line! Two incredibly tough boulders separated by a rest and featuring some of the best moves ever.
Filip Schenk
Noun is omen
The route was designed in 2017 by none other than Stefano Ghisolfi It was first climbed and quickly became a real test piece in the Arco area. Repeat ascents include Alex Ventajas and Simon Raffeiner. Adam Ondra and John Placci.
Schenk says on Instagram that Omen noun (9a) It's been on his to-do list for a long time – ever since he started climbing the harder routes around Arco. Because he's only been able to dedicate a few days to the route each year, he's all the more pleased that he was able to achieve his goal this time in just two days.
Next, the South Tyrolean Erebor (9b) undertaken – also a line by Stefano Ghisolfi. During the Rock Master Festival, Schenk revealed to us that this route is currently his absolute favorite line in Arco.
Climbing is about wanting – In conversation with Filip Schenk
During the Rock Masters event, we also had the opportunity for a longer and more engaging conversation with Filip Schenk: Much of it revolved around the mental aspects of climbing. For Schenk, climbing isn't just about strength, but above all, about willpower. A concept clearly reflected in Omen Nomen's success after so many years.
As a more technical climber, Filip invests a lot of time in strength training and consciously focuses on his mental approach. For several years, he has been working with a mental coach to strengthen precisely this aspect. The conversation revolved around willpower – how much the mind plays a decisive role, even when the body is tired. Even then, it's often possible to get more out of yourself than you think. The idea is: just because your mind says "I can't go on," doesn't necessarily mean your body is truly at its limit. Many climbers know this feeling – you think you have no strength left, and then you manage two or three more moves.
When asked how big a mental aspect is in climbing, Schenk smiles: "In competition, the mind accounts for at least 30 percent. On rock, maybe a little less – the route isn't going anywhere."
Filip dedicates almost all his time to climbing. For him, it's crucial to constantly remind himself that this is exactly what he wants to do. If he saw it as a sacrifice, discipline would be nearly impossible. But because he truly wants it – and loves it – he achieves what he sets out to do. Like finally completing a route like Omen Nomen after such a long time.
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