Italian climber Giovanni Placci climbed four different 9a routes over four consecutive days in mid-September: three in the Piedmontese area of La Stazione, and one in Albenga. He narrowly missed a flash on the very last move.
A different 9a every day
The series began with "Prima Classe" (9a), which Placci climbed on his second attempt. The following day, he sent "Narcissus" (9a) in Albenga, this time on his third attempt. On the third day, he ticked "Trainspotting" (9a), again on his second attempt. The series concluded with "Vivi si muore" (9a). Four days, four routes, no rest day in between.
Just missed the flash
The week's goal was more ambitious than the results suggest: Placci wanted to flash the three 9a routes in La Stazione. He describes the area in southern Piedmont as "competitive" and therefore a suitable place for the period immediately following the season. The plan didn't quite work out, but he came close on all three lines. The closest was on "Vivi si muore": his right hand slipped on the final move of his flash attempt.
No room for error
There's no second chance. Placci takes a similarly pragmatic view. The Flash game leaves no room for error, he says, "this time it wasn't enough." Nevertheless, he doesn't sound dissatisfied. He's happy to have climbed the lines and to be feeling in such good shape right now.
Placci himself sees the week more as training: a program with "somewhat easier routes" and new areas, while he waits for good conditions for his main goal. That goal is "La Rage d'Adam" (9b). After the week in La Stazione and Albenga, he is highly motivated to return to his main project in La Ramirol. The conditions should improve with each passing week of autumn.
From the World Cup finals straight to the rock face
The series of results followed immediately after the end of Placci's competition season with the World Cup final in Koper. It also marks the beginning of a phase in which the 25-year-old intends to focus more on outdoor climbing.
"After the World Cup in Koper, I couldn't wait to get back to the rock. Last year I didn't have much time for outdoor climbing, but this year I really want to invest more time."
John Placci
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