Editors
Editors

Hardest route in China opened: Seb Bouin climbs El Gran Cabrón (9b)

climbing

A few hours ago, Frenchman Seb Bouin announced the successful first ascent of what was to date the most difficult route in China: El Gran Cabrón (9b) in the Shegeng Cave in the Chinese province of Guang Xi.

"I don't know where to start. I feel lost in the hundreds of caves and walls that still have so much climbing potential," wrote Bouin about his first days in China. Thanks to a project set up by David Gambus El Gran Cabron was able to ______ oneself Seb Bouin then decide pretty quickly on a line.

It is an incredible experience to find such a project and push myself to my limits in such an environment.

Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin in the Shegeng Cave_China_Image Alex Buisse
Seb Bouin in the Shegeng Cave, China. (Image: Alex Buisse)

At the beginning, Bouin had difficulty deciphering the individual moves of the route. "The climbing is extremely complex and there are often countless options and methods." The route is long, persistent and physically demanding - just as Seb Bouin is suited to. And so it is not surprising that Seb Bouin gave the route El Gran Cabron (9b) which was recently the first free ascent.

The crux involves pincers and incredibly physical sequences – I love it!

Seb Bouin

Seb Bouin projects L'Arenauta (9b)

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Credits: Cover picture riff solo

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Jenya Kazbekova also scores “Dreamcatcher” (9a) in Squamish – one year after the birth of her daughter.

Editors -
Following Camilla Moroni, Jenya Kazbekova has also repeated the famous sport climbing route in British Columbia. For the Ukrainian, it is also her first 9a – and a particularly remarkable achievement considering she became a mother about a year ago.
Read more

Two 9a flashes in two days for Filip Schenk | “Vivi si muore” & “Prima Classe”

Editors -
After his very first 9a flash of "Vivi si muore", the 26-year-old Italian climber immediately followed it up the next day with another 9a on his first attempt: "Prima Classe". Both routes are located in the Italian climbing area of ​​Val Tanaro.
Read more

Camilla Moroni climbs legendary route “Dreamcatcher” (9a) in Squamish

Editors -
Her first 9a – and what a 9a it is: With "Dreamcatcher" (9a/5.14d), the Italian climber has fulfilled a long-cherished dream. On September 24th, Moroni became the third woman to complete Chris Sharma's iconic route in Squamish, British Columbia.
Read more