For Leo Cea, school holidays mean one thing above all: finally time for tough projects on the rock. Over the Easter holidays, the 13-year-old completed "Underground," one of the most historic routes in Arco – and his seventh 9a.
Leo Cea's latest ascent is likely on the wish list of many climbers: "Underground" is located in the Massone sector and is considered one of the most historic routes in Arco. Among those who have repeated it are top climbers such as Laura Rogora, Filip Schenk, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Janja Garnbret, and Adam Ondra. Since Easter, the 13-year-old [name missing] has also been among those who have repeated the route. Leo Cea on this.
For the very first time in bow Leo was there just under three months ago. Shortly before Christmas, he climbed "Pure Dreaming" (8c+/9a) there in just three sessions, a route first ascended in 2018 by Adam Ondra. At the same time, he started his first attempts in "Underground", one of the most famous lines in Arco, during the winter trip.
"Underground" is a very special route. It fascinated me from the very beginning.
Leo Cea
"Underground": A route with cult status
"Underground" was first climbed in 1998 by the South Tyrolean Manfred Stuffer and was long considered the hardest route in Italy – according to some sources, also the country's first 9a. It lies in a former quarry in the Massone area and is therefore not a natural line. Nevertheless, the powerful and varied movements of the approximately 20 steep meters of climbing attract ambitious repeat ascents every year.
The route follows three bouldering sequences (8A, 7B+, 8A), with relatively good resting positions between each. The first ascensionist originally suggested a grade of 8c+ for "Underground," but after repeats by Yuji Hirayama, Tomasa Mrazka, and Christian Bindhammer, the line was upgraded to closer to 9a. In 2020, Alex Megos The only Flash to date.
Good preparation pays off.
For Leo Cea, the historical significance of "Underground" was also a major motivation to attempt the route. The first and physically most challenging 8A crux was the most demanding part. "It wasn't easy to find my own beta," the 13-year-old explains. "The method adults usually use didn't work for my height."
These are very powerful movements that require extreme precision.
Leo Cea
After initial attempts during the Christmas holidays, Leo travelled to Arco again in February – this time solely for "Underground." However, the spring weather was so uncooperative that he couldn't even try all the key sections. "Nevertheless, the trip was very helpful in understanding the line better," says Leo. Targeted training was then on the agenda until his next trip to Arco over Easter.
The intensive preparation paid off: Having barely stepped out of the car and arrived at the crag, Leo Cea climbed his project on his second attempt on March 30th. "The Easter holidays were the perfect time to come back," Leo explains. "The weather was good and I felt very well prepared."
Leo Cea on the grade: "9a suits me"
Regarding the difficulty of "Underground," Leo agrees with the majority of those who have rewatched it. While the line is... on 8a.nu It's listed under the original grade 8c+, but most climbers rate it as a soft 9a. Leo is certain: with his height of 144,5 cm and wingspan of 150,5 cm, the higher grade suits him.
I tend to agree with grade 9a – just like climbers like Laura Rogora, who are of a similar height.
Leo Cea
After completing the main project right at the start of the trip, he added more Massone classics – »Super Maratona« (8b+) on his second attempt and »X-Large« (8c) on his third. With »Pungitopo« (8c+), the 13-year-old also secured a line on the Red Point Wall that is increasingly becoming a modern classic.
Leo Cea: on his way to becoming a professional climber at age 13
Leo Cea grew up in his father's home country of Chile, where he also took up climbing. For almost a year now, the family of six has been living in the Frankenjura region – partly because Europe offers the 13-year-old more opportunities to try his hand at challenging routes. There, the exceptional young climber also trains with Alex Megos at the Frankenjura Academy.
How can climbing at such a high level be combined with a normal childhood? "It's important to us to support Leo's development in an age-appropriate way – through an environment of family, coaches, and mentors," says his father, René Cea. "Even though Leo's climbing CV is of course impressive, we mustn't forget that he still has his whole youth ahead of him."
During the school year, Leo regularly tackles challenging climbs in Franconia, but during most school holidays, the family heads to various climbing hotspots in Spain, Italy, or France. "Currently, the goal is for Leo to learn routes from 8c to 9a in as many different styles as possible, so that he remains a versatile climber," explains René Cea. Leo is supported, among others, by the non-profit Benno Kittl Foundation.
Goal for 2026: first 9a+ in sight
It's no coincidence that Leo Cea recently chose "Underground" and "Pure Dreaming" as his projects. The linkup of both routes, "Pure Dreaming Plus," adds the start of "Underground" to "Pure Dreaming." The approximately 50-meter-long combination is graded 9a+ – a grade Leo has set as his own goal for 2026.
This year I would like to further increase my difficulty level and climb a 9a+.
Leo Cea
The first attempts on "Pure Dreaming Plus" over Easter were initially very promising. Shortly afterwards, however, a hold broke off in the upper crux, making the route practically impossible. "That was quite frustrating," says Leo.
He knows that such things are simply part of being a professional climber: "That's rock climbing – you have to adapt. But it's precisely this uncertainty that makes everything more vibrant and even more exciting."
Leo Ceas' tick list continues to grow
For his first 9a+, a different line will have to suffice. Until then, Leo Cea's list of impressive ascents will continue to grow. It now includes not only seven 9as, but also 14 routes graded 8c or 8c+ and 23 lines graded 8b or 8b+.
Leo Cea's most difficult climbs (selection):
- »Víctimas Pérez« (9a), Margalef, 2025
- “Trip tik tonik” (9a), Gorges du Loup, 2025
- »Tecnoqueen« (9a), Chile, 2025 (First ascent)
- »Era Vella« (9a), Margalef, 2024
- »Tecnoking« (9a), Chile, 2024 (Second inspection)
- »Underground« (8c+/9a), Arco, 2026
- »Pure Dreaming« (8c+/9a), Arco, 2025
- »Pungitopo« (8c+), Arco, 2026
- »Kawaschuwu« (8c+), Frankenjura, 2026
- »Puro Contacto« (8c+), Chile, 2024
- »X-Large« (8c), Arco, 2026
- “Wall Street” (8c), Frankenjura, 2025
Uncut video: Leo Cea climbs »Underground«
That might interest you
- Autumn holidays in Margalef: Leo Cea (12) climbs “Víctimas Pérez” (9a)
- Fourth 9a for Leo Cea (12) | Trip Tik Tonik
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Cover image credits: Leo Cea / @bigwave.tommi