One of the heaviest crack roofs in Switzerland, the route Ultimo sogno at the Parete d'Osogna in Ticino, rotpunkt was climbed for the second and third time. The repeaters are Jonas Schild and Yannick Glatthart.
The route Ultimo sogno was first committed in 1979 by Genesio Petazzi and comrades in a technical style. The pitch through the roof was rated A1 at the time. Many years passed and the wall above Osogna was rarely visited. Only a few tackled the difficulties of the routes and the strict three-hour approach. It was mainly Luca Auguadri and Simon Riediker who brought the area to life with new routes and inspections. The route experienced a first free ascent Ultimo sogno but only in the spring 2016 by the Swiss Silvan Schüpbach.
Tried for the first time with Roger Schäli
But back to the recent celebration of Ultimo sogno, As Jonas shield told LACRUX that he made his first attempt with Roger Schäli on the weekend of Pentecost this year. A week later, the Bernese returned with Yannick Glatthart and was able to book the second ascent of the route. “The plan was then over Climb the line get out, as the upper part of Ultimo sogno was quite overgrown and wet. Unfortunately we had to abseil because of the impending thunderstorm. That was a good decision, because half an hour later it was pouring rain and even hailing, ”says Jonas.
Second day, third repetition
The day after the thunderstorm, the two climbed the route again, because Yannick did not have enough for a free ascent the day before. The motivation was high and so Yannick scored the cracked roof on the second day in the first attempt. Since the upper part of the wall was still wet from the thunderstorm, the two cleared the route and rappelled down. “Of course it's a shame that we couldn't climb the route all the way up, but the conditions just didn't allow it,” continues Jonas continued. Similarly, the first episode, expressed Silvan Schüpbach About the last three pitches: “We didn't have a topo and I remembered that the last three pitches are relatively easy. And because the route was extremely dirty and overgrown from there, I decided that the route would end there for me. In retrospect, I'm a little dissatisfied with not having climbed all the way to the top, but the last three pitches simply have no sporting value for me. "
Hooks and mobile fuses
The route Ultimo sogno on the Parete d'Osogna stretches over eight pitches, the first five of which have difficulty 7a, 7b +, 8a +, 6c, 7a +. Is secured Ultimo sogno with hooks, respectively mobile fuses. Only the stands are drilled.
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Credits: Pictures Jonas Schild