The Frenchwoman Julia Chanourdie does the fourth ascent of the 9a+ Route Super Crackinette, which Alexander Megos first climbed in October 2016.
Heard at 23 years old Julia Chanourdie to the young hopes of France. The athlete who lives in Aviernoz has already climbed two 9a's and has already signed up for the Summer Olympics Qualified in Tokyo in 2020.
With her most recent ascent, the 9a+ route Super Crackinette in Saint-Leger, She has definitely catapulted herself into the climbing Olympus. No French woman has ever climbed a route of this grade before, and worldwide, this feat remains reserved for only a handful of women.
"Incredible. Today I climbed Super Crackinette red point! ”Physically, I was quickly convinced that I could climb the route. But then it was a big mental challenge because I fell out several times at the upper key point. "
Julia Chanourdie
17 days of project planning
Until Julia reached the stand of Super Crackinette The 23-year-old invested 17 days to complete the route. The fact that she even attempted this route is thanks to Baptiste Dherbilly. He motivated Julia to attempt the route. According to Julia, the key to her success was a tip from Sebastien Berthe, who had a different solution for the upper crux, which is just as strict as the original solution, but less shaky.
"Sébastien's solution was better for me because it is very finger-heavy and that helped me."
Julia Chanourdie
Only fourth woman worldwide
Before Julia it was the climbers Margo Hayes, Anak Verhoeven and Angy Eiterwho could climb a 9a + route (or harder). "Harder" because Angy Eiter skipped a degree and in 2017 she did La Planta de Shiva directly scored a 9b.
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Credits: Cover picture Jocelyn Chavy