French climber Jules Marchaland has made the first ascent of the old Ondra project "King Kang" in the Hanshelleren cave near Flatanger. The 25-year-old proposes a grade of 9b+ for the dynamic line.
Ondra's line, finally climbed
Jules Marchaland has in the Hanshelleren Cave The route “King Kang” was first climbed at Flatanger. The line was bolted by none other than the Czech superstar. Adam Ondra. According to Marchaland, “King Kang” is the original, direct line of “Kangaroo’s Limb” (9a+) – the variant that Ondra himself climbed in 2013.
A dream route for anyone who loves jumping. Probably a new type of route at this difficulty level: a dynamic boulder problem with rope protection. Absolutely brilliant, thanks again, Pabst Adam!
Jules Marchaland on Vertical Life
Ondra left the direct exit open at the time. He could hold the jump as a single move, but couldn't link it up in a way close to a complete ascent. In his logbook on 8a.nu, he left a call: "All dyno specialists: Come by and give it a try!" Marchaland accepted the invitation. The route to the jump involves climbing part of the crux of "Kangaroo's Limb" plus three moves into the jump position – which Marchaland estimated at around 9a to 9a+. He placed the jump itself at 8A+/8B. Darth Grader agrees with Marchaland and rates it 9b+.
Six days for the send
Last year, Marchaland only managed two days on the route, and he was ill. This year, he quickly felt well, and four more days were enough to complete the project. Five days before the trip, he also sprained his big toe. Fortunately, he writes, it only bothers him in certain positions – not on this route.
"This jump is wild and definitely makes the whole thing seem like a one-move boulder problem. I'm really glad I managed it before I keep failing at the same move – that happens to me way too often."
Jules Marchaland
In an interview with 8a.nu, he calls "King Kang" a dream route for anyone who likes to jump: presumably a new type of route in this grade, a dynamic boulder problem on a rope.
9b+ – with reservations
Marchaland himself struggled with the grade. In his Instagram post, he writes: "I wasn't entirely confident about calling it 9b+, but after discussing it with Adam, it feels right. The effort is short, and even a little pre-fatigue before such a tough dyno makes a huge difference." Whether the suggestion holds up, however, will only be revealed by a repeat ascent.
From the World Cup to the block
Marchaland's continued dynamic progress fits the picture. Since the 25-year-old stopped competing in the Lead World Cups last summer, he has made significant strides in both lead climbing and bouldering: The young Frenchman's tick list now includes 29 routes from 9a upwards. He also has 6 boulders at 8C – including one flash – and one 8C+.
He's no stranger to Flatanger. In September 2025, he climbed "Kangaroo's Limb" and "Illusionist" (9a) there. The lines had previously been climbed by, among others... Jakob Schubert, Stefano Ghisolfi and Alexander Megos. repeated. We are excited for the first rerun of "King Kang"
That might interest you
- Jules Marchaland climbs new 9b with Mega-Dyno in Claret
- Action Discrète 9a – First ascent and direct repeat
+ + +
Credits cover image: Archive image – Marchaland in Le bruit de l'acid: Yulen Calleja Ordiz